Welcome to my world!

Welcome to my world!

Sunday, April 6, 2014

My Love Affair with Singapore's Shophouses

Singapore’s shophouses delight me. I love them. Upon my first visit to the Lion City ten years ago the shophouses that lined the streets of Chinatown, Tanjong Pagar and other neighborhoods fascinated me from the get-go. 
Gazing at their charming countenances and exploring their interiors sent me back to an earlier time. As an historian this is an important element of my travel experience anywhere. My love affairs with historic shophouses was off to a good start.

I am no stranger to historic homes and buildings -and the need to preserve them. My family have called the Town of Greenwich, Connecticut USA our home since the 17th century. The Mead's and other early families built many historic homes and buildings that still dot the town's landscape. Dozens still dot the town's landscape -but as I learned as we approached Greenwich's 350th anniversary in 1990 demolition was always a possibility and a sad reality.
Preserving our heritage and extolling others to do the same is a sacred tradition. When in my early twenties Claire Vanderbilt asked me to serve on the Greenwich Historical Society's board of trustees. My commitment to heritage preservation had been established by then. I was the local history editor and contributing writer for the Greenwich Time daily news while still in my undergraduate studies. 
There was much work to do. That chapter in my life sowed the seeds for a passion to preserve our historical streetscapes and help others to do the same. 
I read that many had been torn down. Yet I was delighted to see so many were preserved and used for restaurants, clubs, businesses and museums. 

Chinatown Food Street is lined with elegant, colorful and stately shophouses. Such attention to architectural preservation was vital in making my 'Uniquely Singapore' experience such a lasting one. 

In my not-so-humble opinion, Singapore's shophouses are snapshots in time. They gracefully embody the hardworking people of that country. Especially after my visit to the Chinatown Heritage Centre, I find it impossible to separate these remarkable structures from the people who built and inhabit them. Each shutter, French door, tiled floor and other arrangements mirror the heart of Singapore's character, all of this lending further authenticity to my many meanderings. 



One of the days I spent in the downtown or urban core brought me here to the Singapore River. Both banks are lined with restored shophouses that have been converted for use as restaurants and businesses. 


Shophouses are also commonly found throughout cities in South East Asian nations, not just Singapore. 
But are they? Good question! 'Shophouses' are defined as narrow houses with relatively small terraces. Some are two stories, but I gathered that most are three. Each includes what is commonly called a "five-foot" pedestrian way or path in the front of the shophouse. This tradition was established in the early days of Singapore's history when Sir Stamford Raffles was in charge in the early 19th century.
To learn more about the elements and significance of Singapore's shophouses I direct my readers to this link to the Urban Development Authority

I consider this to be a fine example of an elegant 'five-foot way.' In neighborhoods that are not flat steps are often incorporated. What's wonderful about these sheltered paths is that they provide shade from the oppressive sun and shelter from torrents of rain. If you are lucky you can leave your umbrella at home. 




This is an example of a row of shophouses built on a slight hillside in Chinatown. 





The Scarlet is a shophouse boutique hotel on the edge of Chinatown, just a block away from the Maxwell Food Centre and Ann Siang Hill and Club Street. It is one of the places I considered staying. 



Welcome to another shophouse gem that is preserved today as a boutique hotel. I stayed at the Duxton Hotel on Duxton Hill Road for the final two nights of my recent adventures. Go here to learn more about my experiences at the Duxton. 



Before I forget I'd like to draw your attention to an article in the Wall Street Journal, A Contemporary Take on a Traditional Singapore Shophouse. The piece is dated January 23, 2014. (You may need subscriber status to access the entire text.)  


Last but least, my first shophouse boutique hotel experience was here at Hotel 1929. Go to this link for my impressions -and give the proprietors your business! 


I've met many Singaporeans who had the privilege of growing up in such places. True, the shophouses they grew up in did not have many of the embellishments and modern amenities we take for granted in the 21st century. And yet that more than anything might be the best reason to preserve these places. It has not been easy for Singapore to emerge as one of the world's great city-states. As with all journeys it started with a vision and a seed. Preserving shophouses -and providing economic incentives to do so- is a worthy cause.










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