There it was. Well, not quite as I remember it. For years I've walked by the Shingon Shu Mission in Honolulu, yet I had no idea it was there.
The plain, unadorned back of the temple faces Keeaumoku Street, also known locally as Korea-moku Street due to the proliferate number of Korean restaurants and business establishments. The street is also home for what is reputably the world's largest Walmart store -a retail battleground we commonly refer to as the nuthouse.
I had been on a visit to Makiki Christian Church to capture images of its alluring Japanese Edo-era castle interior and exterior features. It was a nice day in Honolulu -well, isn't everyday a nice day here weather wise? I decided to trek through the nearby neighborhood streets.
That's when -much to my delight and surprise- I encountered this:
Meet Kūkai, known posthumously as Kōbō Daishi (774-835 CE), credited as the founder of Shingon (True Word) Buddhism.
It does not get much more dramatic than this. That was fine with me. I love a good surprise! Some of my most interesting adventures into the esoteric spaces and places of worship by humanity's array of religions and beliefs were happenstance.
You'd be amazed to find that this oasis of mystical Buddhist piety is located in one of the busiest crossroads of the city of Honolulu. A McDonald's is located a stone's throw away -and yet the placidity and otherworldliness of Shingon Shu Mission was so evident. The juxtaposition of the temple with the world's most-recognized fast-food establishment could not be more accentuated.
With time to spare and camera in hand I decided to vanish from the outer world's noisy clamor and explore this temple's captivating nuances. I was alone to savor the tranquil flavors of this ornate temple off Sheridan Street.
Located in Honolulu, Hawaii USA, this temple was originally built a century ago. Nakagawa Katsutaro was a master builder of such Japanese-inspired temples as this masterpiece of his works.
Does the name Hego Fuchino ring a bell or two? Besides known locally as Hawaii's first American of Japanese ancestry to be a licensed architect, he designed nearby Makiki Christian Church. He was brought in to renovate Shingon Shu in 1929.
Besides serving as a temple I later learned that Shingon Shu is a congregational Buddhist school immersed in following the original tenets established over 1200 years ago by Kobo Daishi. He is credited as bringing Buddhism from China to Japan in 806 CE.
On April 26, 2002 this temple was added to the National Register of Historic Places.
Two massive statues stand guard just outside the main entrance to the temple. Installed in 2007 and carved of Japanese cypress, the statues represent Fujin, the Wind deity, and Raijin, the Thunder deity. Standing more than ten feet tall, each weighs 2,800 pounds. They are the largest such depictions of these Japanese deities outside of Japan.
Why were they added to the temple? Hawaii is famous for the prevailing trade winds from the north, making the islands a very comfortable locale all year round. Both deities represent the powers and forces of Nature.
On the right side of the temple entrance is Raijin, the God of Thunder. Impressive! He could certainly give Thor the God of Thunder popularized by Marvel Comics some real competition.
On the left is this remarkable representation of the deity Fujin.
Do you see what Fujin is carrying on his shoulders? That, my friends, is a large bag of wind. I wondered if the etymology, or phrase origin of the term windbag had something in common here? Have you called anyone a windbag recently? Or, been called one?
Never mind. Let's continue. I'm in enough trouble as it is.
This exterior altar caught my eye. It is located to the left of the main entrance to the temple.
This obelisk is located near the front entrance of the temple. It is dedicated to the first Shingon mission from Japanese immigrants in the Hawaiian Islands to Japan in 1929.
For as long as I can remember I have been enamored with the sheer elegance, refinement and sophistication of hip-and-gabled roofing style so graciously synonymous with East Asian architecture. In Japanese this is called irimoya.
I was also quite charmed and fascinated by the intricate carvings above the main entrance. I leaned, too, that the curvature seen above symbolizes the cycles of life.
The carved Phoenix immediately above the entrance caught my eye. In a time when we are immersed in instant-downloads to our curiosity such a masterstroke of expression reminded me that the best in life comes as a result of both effort and patience.
The late-morning sun was beating down heavily that day. Naturally, I sought comfort and relief inside. Again, I was alone with my camera and my thoughts. I would not be disappointed upon entering the main hall.
The colorful, glittering altar proportionally coupled with the ceiling mandala and the Japanese-built benches around me made for a pleasant balance. Esoteric indeed.
I will not endeavor to pretend to know all of the symbolism of the altar. It did strike me as beautiful, ornate, and contemplative. A Buddhist friend I subsequently wrote to about my experience at Shingon Shu Hawaii and my (hopefully not-too-annoying) questions would later comment:
"Yes, when I visit temples like Shingon Shu I bow, savor the atmosphere provided by the candles and the incense -and what it does is transform my state of mind. You've spoken about how calming it is to enter the sacred spaces that typify your Christian journey. It's the same here. I feel centered, blessed and renewed by my awareness in a quiet, delightful way. I'm still on the road to enlightenment, so this is a nice part of that continuous voyage."
The 600 square foot or 56 square meter taizokai mandala suspended from the ceiling is remarkable in its vibrancy and detail. This, I would learn later, is a recent addition to the temple.
This is not a bell but rather a Bonshō. In Japanese Buddhist temples that are struck from the outside with a mallet or a wooden beam suspended on ropes. The are traditionally made from bronze, and I believe that this is the case here. Each of these is amplified by ornate, ornamental inscriptions and designs. This one hangs from the right-side exterior of the temple. No, I did not make an attempt to ring it.
Eleven years ago in 2004 Shingon Shu made history by separating from its denomination in Japan. The Hawaii Herald featured news of this move in this June, 2004 article. By "sailing its own canoe," the Mission is embarking on a new independent course with its precedent set centuries ago in the continued history of Buddhism.
My own faith journey is Christian in the Congregationalist Protestant tradition, yet here in Hawaii I count many of my neighbors and friends as practicing Buddhists. We're kind to each other, our neighbors here in the Land of Aloha -and with that sentiment renewed again I wished them well.
It was time for me to move forward, to return to the hectic pace of contemporary living, including all its headaches and responsibilities. Pretty soon the summer sun would descend on this haven of balance and beauty -and the festive season of bon dances. I just might stop by again to check up on my neighbors. Will future seasons and centuries see the emergence of a form of Aloha-based Hawaiian Buddhism spawned from its Japanese roots? History will unfold as it should.
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