National Memories: China-USA World War II Collaboration at Hawaii's Pacific Aviation Museum

"The historic friendship between China and the United States in World War II was significant for the outcome of the war, and continues to resonate with citizens of both countries," said Shauna Tonkin, director of education of the Pacific Aviation Museum Pearl Harbor, "this exhibit portrays the events and emotions of that era through remarkable photographs that bring this history to life."

It's big. Really big. Larger than life comes to mind. Inspiring. It makes your spirit soar. 

Hawaii's Pacific Aviation Museum at Ford Island, Pearl Harbor offers a unique historical wow-factor like no other. I've been coming here since the museum opened on its first day in 2006. For me the closest thing to immersing myself in aviation up to that time was flying Economy-class on a commercial airline. 

But now? Oh! 

I'm a huge fan of this museum, a must-see for anyone visiting Hawaii's Pearl Harbor. I'm also a huge fan of that special-class of aviation historians and airplane afficiandoes. They talk-story about their flying machines and experiences with a special affection and reverence that brings a smile. 

Earlier this Spring I was sent news of a new exhibition that got my blood pumping. On March 15, 2015 National Memories, a photo exhibition like no-other focusing on the collaboration between the USA and China during World War II was opening. Its focus is on the China-Burma-India (CBI) Theater. When I was reminded that the exhibit was set to close on July 31.

(Click here for a link to Hawaii Governor Ige's official proclamation in recognition of the exhibit). 

I was bounded and determined to put any and all my commitments on the back-burner to see it. If I had to walk to Pearl Harbor so be it! Fortunately my already-worn running shoes and leg muscles were spared. 

That's the U.S.S. Missouri Memorial on the left; the conning tower of the Pacific Aviation Museum in the center; and the U.S.S. Arizona Memorial on the right. My visit to Pearl Harbor was on a picture-perfect day -a stark contrast to those on December 7, 1941 and thereafter. 

This is the restored conning tower at the Pacific Aviation Museum on Ford Island, Pearl Harbor Hawaii. 

The National Memories exhibit was in Hanger 79, a part of the Pacific Aviation Museum. 

This is the scene I beheld when I quietly strolled into Hanger 79. 

The sheer size of the hanging panels lends itself to what is so evidently true of those portrayed here. The Chinese and Americans worked side-by-side under horrendous circumstances to do the impossible -and as a result earned for themselves the larger-than-life reputation they so clearly deserved then as they do now. 

Many Americans today still think China is on the other side of the world.

This photo was a popular one among my fellow visitors. It shows an American soldier and a Chinese soldier leaning in each others' direction to light a cigarette during the fighting in Burma's Hukawng Valley: 

Click here for a link to the story published in China Daily. David Lampton, the former president of the National Committee on US-China Relations summed this image up by saying, "It showed a kind of cooperation. It's very humane... this is a good model for cooperation we should apply in the future, it also reminds us that there is no peace in Asia unless the United States, China and Japan get along, so we have to find a way to do that."

Dashing and daring, don't you agree? Meet Canadian-born Chinese Aviator Albert Mah. 

Dated May 1, 1944, "American-Japanese interpreters with Brig. Gen. Frank Merrill's Infantry troops in northern Burma. Left: T/Sgt. Herbert Miyasaki, Paauild, Hawaii. Right: T/Sgt. Akiji Yoshimura, Colusa, California. 

This was my favorite image of the exhibition. Meet 16-year-old Pvt. Pan Chen-to of the 1st Chinese Commandos. "The youngest paratrooper in the world... is smiling happily after making his first jump at Kunming, China. The paratroopers are being trained by American officers and men of the Office of Strategic Service." 

Another personal favorite of mine was this image. Dated June 25, 1942, it was all-smiles for Jean Lynch and Lt. Pao-Chuen Chung, Lt. Yuen-Kong Ling, Lt. Ming-Wei Chang, and Lt. Wen-Su Hsu. They were "at an eastern air base in New England [the states of Maine, New Hampshire, Vermont, Massachusetts, Rhode Island and my ancestral home, Connecticut] where they were receiving advanced aerial operation instruction" while enjoying "ice cream cones at the PX" by Miss Lynch. 

I found a familiar face among the photos! may I introduce you to U.S. Marine Cpl. Richard W. Miller? The Philadelphia native is shown here in this image dated September 30, 1945 is bargaining with a native of Tianjin (Tientsin) for a ride in the man's rickshaw. Miller is familiar to me through my late-father, Herbert Bingham Mead, who was stationed in Tianjin with the 1st Marine Division at the same time (See my historical blog site My Dad the U.S. China Marine). Miller was a Marine photographer who was serving with the occupation and repatriation troops there and in Beijing. 

On my way out I paused to gaze at these window panes. The bullet holes you see are from the December 7, 1941 attack by forces of the Empire of Japan. 

This was one of those exhibits that left me feeling inspired. It was all so historic, and yet so new. I also felt a tinge of validation about my own book project on the post-World War II American China Marines of which my father was one of them. Here were two very distinct peoples (Chinese and American) fighting together in a cause that brought out the best and the bravest. What I identified with most was the humanness of this exhibit. While the military historical overtones were obvious this what I witnessed on this visit was a human story. I loved it and, in all honesty, hated to leave. 

The exhibit was organized by the China Overseas Exchange Association, the Pacific Aviation Museum Pearl Harbor, Rhythm Media Group Inc. and the Chinese Chamber of Commerce of Hawaii. 

Please go to the Pacific Aviation Museum here in Hawaii soon. This exhibit concludes July 31. You will not regret it. I hope your spirits soar as mine did.

For more on this exhibit go to the following resources:

Photo exhibit on China-U.S. WWII collaboration unveils in Honolulu.  Xinhuanet Asia & Pacific Edition. March 15, 2015. 

Photos Record US-China Friendship During WWII. Global Times. March 19, 2015. 

National Memories: Sino-U.S. Cooperation During WWII. Beijing Review. Updated June 11, 2015. 

C-100 Supports Commemoration of U.S.-China WWII Collaboration. Committee of 100. October 15, 2014. 

Shingon Shu Hawaii Mission: Esoteric Visions, Sacred Lines

There it was. Well, not quite as I remember it. For years I've walked by the Shingon Shu Mission in Honolulu, yet I had no idea it was there. 

The plain, unadorned back of the temple faces Keeaumoku Street, also known locally as Korea-moku Street due to the proliferate number of Korean restaurants and business establishments. The street is also home for what is reputably the world's largest Walmart store -a retail battleground we commonly refer to as the nuthouse.

I had been on a visit to Makiki Christian Church to capture images of its alluring Japanese Edo-era castle interior and exterior features. It was a nice day in Honolulu -well, isn't everyday a nice day here weather wise? I decided to trek through the nearby neighborhood streets. 

That's when -much to my delight and surprise- I encountered this:

Meet Kūkai, known posthumously as Kōbō Daishi (774-835 CE), credited as the founder of Shingon (True Word) Buddhism. 

It does not get much more dramatic than this. That was fine with me. I love a good surprise! Some of my most interesting adventures into the esoteric spaces and places of worship by humanity's array of religions and beliefs were happenstance. 

You'd be amazed to find that this oasis of mystical Buddhist piety is located in one of the busiest crossroads of the city of Honolulu. A McDonald's is located a stone's throw away -and yet the placidity and otherworldliness of Shingon Shu Mission was so evident. The juxtaposition of the temple with the world's most-recognized fast-food establishment could not be more accentuated. 

With time to spare and camera in hand I decided to vanish from the outer world's noisy clamor and explore this temple's captivating nuances. I was alone to savor the tranquil flavors of this ornate temple off Sheridan Street. 

Located in Honolulu, Hawaii USA, this temple was originally built a century ago. Nakagawa Katsutaro was a master builder of such Japanese-inspired temples as this masterpiece of his works. 

Does the name Hego Fuchino ring a bell or two? Besides known locally as Hawaii's first American of Japanese ancestry to be a licensed architect, he designed nearby Makiki Christian Church. He was brought in to renovate Shingon Shu in 1929. 

Besides serving as a temple I later learned that Shingon Shu is a congregational Buddhist school immersed in following the original tenets established over 1200 years ago by Kobo Daishi. He is credited as bringing Buddhism from China to Japan in 806 CE. 

On April 26, 2002 this temple was added to the National Register of Historic Places. 

Two massive statues stand guard just outside the main entrance to the temple. Installed in 2007 and carved of Japanese cypress, the statues represent Fujin, the Wind deity, and Raijin, the Thunder deity. Standing more than ten feet tall, each weighs 2,800 pounds. They are the largest such depictions of these Japanese deities outside of Japan. 

Why were they added to the temple? Hawaii is famous for the prevailing trade winds from the north, making the islands a very comfortable locale all year round. Both deities represent the powers and forces of Nature. 

On the right side of the temple entrance is Raijin, the God of Thunder. Impressive! He could certainly give Thor the God of Thunder popularized by Marvel Comics some real competition. 

On the left is this remarkable representation of the deity Fujin. 

Do you see what Fujin is carrying on his shoulders? That, my friends, is a large bag of wind. I wondered if the etymology, or phrase origin of the term windbag had something in common here? Have you called anyone a windbag recently? Or, been called one?

Never mind. Let's continue. I'm in enough trouble as it is. 

This exterior altar caught my eye. It is located to the left of the main entrance to the temple.

This obelisk is located near the front entrance of the temple. It is dedicated to the first Shingon mission from Japanese immigrants in the Hawaiian Islands to Japan in 1929. 

For as long as I can remember I have been enamored with the sheer elegance, refinement and sophistication of hip-and-gabled roofing style so graciously synonymous with East Asian architecture. In Japanese this is called irimoya. 

I was also quite charmed and fascinated by the intricate carvings above the main entrance. I leaned, too, that the curvature seen above symbolizes the cycles of life. 

The carved Phoenix immediately above the entrance caught my eye. In a time when we are immersed in instant-downloads to our curiosity such a masterstroke of expression reminded me that the best in life comes as a result of both effort and patience. 

The late-morning sun was beating down heavily that day. Naturally,  I sought comfort and relief inside. Again, I was alone with my camera and my thoughts. I would not be disappointed upon entering the main hall. 

The colorful, glittering altar proportionally coupled with the ceiling mandala and the Japanese-built benches around me made for a pleasant balance. Esoteric indeed. 

I will not endeavor to pretend to know all of the symbolism of the altar. It did strike me as beautiful, ornate, and contemplative. A Buddhist friend I subsequently wrote to about my experience at Shingon Shu Hawaii and my (hopefully not-too-annoying) questions would later comment:

"Yes, when I visit temples like Shingon Shu I bow, savor the atmosphere provided by the candles and the incense -and what it does is transform my state of mind. You've spoken about how calming it is to enter the sacred spaces that typify your Christian journey. It's the same here. I feel centered, blessed and renewed by my awareness in a quiet, delightful way. I'm still on the road to enlightenment, so this is a nice part of that continuous voyage." 

The 600 square foot or 56 square meter taizokai mandala suspended from the ceiling is remarkable in its vibrancy and detail. This, I would learn later, is a recent addition to the temple. 

This is not a bell but rather a Bonshō. In Japanese Buddhist temples that are struck from the outside with a mallet or a wooden beam suspended on ropes. The are traditionally made from bronze, and I believe that this is the case here. Each of these is amplified by ornate, ornamental inscriptions and designs. This one hangs from the right-side exterior of the temple. No, I did not make an attempt to ring it. 

Eleven years ago in 2004 Shingon Shu made history by separating from its denomination in Japan. The Hawaii Herald featured news of this move in this June, 2004 article. By "sailing its own canoe," the Mission is embarking on a new independent course with its precedent set centuries ago in the continued history of Buddhism. 

My own faith journey is Christian in the Congregationalist Protestant tradition, yet here in Hawaii I count many of my neighbors and friends as practicing Buddhists. We're kind to each other, our neighbors here in the Land of Aloha -and with that sentiment renewed again I wished them well. 

It was time for me to move forward, to return to the hectic pace of contemporary living, including all its headaches and responsibilities. Pretty soon the summer sun would descend on this haven of balance and beauty -and the festive season of bon dances. I just might stop by again to check up on my neighbors. Will future seasons and centuries see the emergence of a form of Aloha-based Hawaiian Buddhism spawned from its Japanese roots? History will unfold as it should.