Makiki Christian Church Hawaii: God's Protecting Care, Inspired by Old Japan

"For the name of the Lord is a strong tower." Proverbs 18:10.

"The most successful churches, chapels, temples, synagogues, and mosques have at least one thing in common: architecture that transforms raw, earthly materials into compositions so powerful they evoke something beyond our world," wrote Tim McKeough of Architectural Digest.  History has been the witness to the creation of some of the most splendid architectural achievements. That is especially true when it comes to churches and other sacred spaces in Hawaii. 

Back in the early 20th century those associated with the Pan-Pacific Movement viewed Hawaii as the 'Crossroads of the Pacific,' with particular emphasis on the then-territory's multiethnic harmony. Those sentiments found expression in the building of the church.

When many people encounter a revered masterpiece like Makiki Christian Church in Honolulu for the first time it takes your breath away. Its five-story tall tower commandingly makes a unique statement on the city's skyline. 

Completed in 1932, it is the only church in the USA whose design was inspired by Edo-era castles in Japan. 

Yes, the church is listed on the National Register of Historic Places -deservedly so. It's also listed here with Historic Hawaii Foundation. 

That's not all that makes this church so unique and alluring. 

Believe it or not, the church edifice cost US$41,000 to build -bearing in mind that is circa 1932 dollars. It is constructed of imported redwood and took about seven months to build. 

All was not smooth-sailing when the proposed design of Makiki Christian Church was unveiled. There was great turmoil and warfare in the world of the 1930's. So, it is understandable that at least initially the board of the Hawaiian Evangelical Association had some raised eyebrows.

As you will learn shortly -as I did- that the church's first minister was both teacher and historian, persuading the board of the wisdom of adopting this design. 

In those days there was tremendous animosity between Japan -then a military-run, expansionist empire- and China. All the building materials for Makiki Christian Church were purchased from City Mill, whose president at that time was K.A. Chung. This was done on purpose to show the world that such animosities did not include the Chinese American and Japanese American communities in Hawaii. 

According to a July 13, 1932 story in the Honolulu Star Bulletin, T. Takahashi was the contractor with 35 men employed. The architect was none other than Hego Fuchino, who is recognized today as Hawaii's first Japanese American architect. 

It turns out that much of the early Japanese-inspired architectural traditions in Honolulu were all due to this self-taught designer. 

Below is his architectural rendering of the church. (Source here).

So, who was Hego Fuchino? Born in 1888 in Saga, a prefecture on the northwestern side of Kyushu, Japan, he arrived in Hawaii at around 17 or 18 years of age.  

Now, pause for a moment. Take a look at the color images of the church I've provided and the architectural rendering above, then remember this: 

Hego Fuchino worked his way through Iolani School and the University of Hawaii. 

How? 

He had a job setting up pins in a bowling alley. Not sure what that means? Try this:

That same man became the first Issei (first generation Japanese) engineer trained in Hawaii, too. Not too bad at all. 

It pays to keep your "eye on the prize," wouldn't you agree? I'll bet he never complained, too. 

Fuchino would later graduate from the University of Hawaii with a degree in civil engineering. He found employment as a land surveyor, allowing him to earn the income required to open his own engineering office. 

It was reportedly during this period of his life that he taught himself architecture. 

There is no doubt that the December 7, 1941 attack on Pearl Harbor by forces of the Empire of Japan was traumatic. Hawaii was placed under martial law, the only place in the USA where this was so. 

Not long after the attack, Fuchino was arrested upon returning to his home. His "crime"? Simply being who he was -a first-generation Japanese American. He would spend five years in various internment camps in Wisconsin (Yes, that makes my blood boil) until permitted to return to Honolulu and his practice as an architect and an engineer.

Two golden dolphins ornament the uppermost ridgepole. 

Eight years had flown by since I last visited Makiki Christian Church. The church was full of boisterous festive people as I recall.

Today I would explore this sacred place alone and in quietude. 

When I arrived to visit the church and strolled around its exterior I was very warmly greeted -nothing but bright smiles and kindness from the staff. They all knew Gloria well and asked me to send their aloha and regards. 

It was time to go in for my reunion with this sacred space. 

Yes, that immense door is as heavy as it looks. No, the church staff conducted me directly from the office. 

This is the church's entrance. Yes, those rather massive solid wooden doors are fourteen feet tall.

I stepped into a different world. Yes, I was in the right place. 

So, by now you've probably concluded that the architectural design of this church constitutes the largest volume of questions. I hear you. 

Just as that is the case in the 21st century so, too, was Makiki Christian Church the object of such questions. 

In a published news article dated October 29, 1932 a reporter named Leslie Nakashima came to the rescue back in the day. She came to mine, too, in 2015 via microfiche newspaper records. 

Welcome to the vestibule. It is one of the largest I've ever explored.  Soaring thirty feet high, the vestibule provides access to the church sanctuary and the Parish Hall. The floors here and throughout the church are of acid-stained concrete. 

"Resembling as it does a feudal castle of old Japan," wrote Nakashima, "the Rev. Takie Okumura has decided to explain."

Thank goodness! 

"We find in the Bible many passages which speak of 'God as our castle' and of 'God as high tower,'" Rev. Okumura said.

"The castle stands for grandeur and security. Man frequently sought protection of it in times of danger. It was their sole means of defense against their enemies."

"The early Christians used the castle and high tower as symbols of God's protecting care," Rev. Okumura is quoted as saying. 

So, Leslie Nakashima and Rev. Okumura accurately remind us that the biblical words inspired the congregation to build this remarkable sanctuary as we see it today.

That prompted the question as to why a Japanese Edo-era style castle design was appropriated. The answer, according to Rev. Okumura, lies in the recesses of Japanese history. 

"Of the types of Japanese architecture, the castle is the oldest and has an intimate relationship with Christianity. Tenshukaku, or high tower in the Japanese castle was the first place used for worship of the Christian God, said Rev. Okumura. 

"Therefore, we believed the castle the most appropriate design for a Japanese church edifice," he continued. "We want to Christianize the architectural beauty of Japan, offering it at the same time as a contribution of the community." 

Note the columns with the Japanese-style elbow brackets. 

According to Nakashima's piece, Rev. Okumura observed that the castles that remain in Japan today are of recent construction, and that what there was in Edo-period Japan lacked high towers, moats or stone walls. Here's something else that is new to me: the first imposing, notable castles that survived then as today were built by Lord Hisahide Matsunaga -a Christian- in November, 1560, or the 3rd era of Eiroku, at Shikisan, Yamamoto, according to Rev. Okumura. 

He told Ms. Nakashima about a five-storied tower called Tenshukaku. Ten meant Heaven, shu meant Lord, and kaku meant place, so when taken together it translates to Place to Worship Lord of Heaven. Lord Matsunaga worshiped Tenshu, or the Christian God. It literally all adds up. 

Rev. Okumura told the story of Nobunaga Oda who, in 1568, followed the instructions of Yoshioki Ashinaga. Who was he? None other than the Shogun, or military ruler of Japan. Oda invited two Catholic missionaries from the southernmost island of Kyushu to Kyoto. It was there that Lord Oda encouraged them to construct a Christian cathedral that was called Nambanji. It was located in Shijo, Kyoto. In January, 1577 Lord Oda completed the construction of Adzuchijo with a seven-story tower that mimicked Lord Hisahide's castle. 

Fast forward to the dawning years of the 20th century in Hawaii. Starting out with 24 members, the Makiki church was organized on April 8, 1904. 

Believe it or not they started off rather humbly with a shed off Kinau Street. It accommodated 36 people. 

Less than a year later, the congregation grew quickly. A cottage nearby was rented, allowing the congregation to fit up to 80 worshippers. They moved again in 1906. 

By the tenth anniversary of the founding of the Makiki church in 1914 membership had grown to 500. In 1932 it was just shy of 800 people. 

It was in 1929 -the 25th anniversary of the congregation's founding- that plans for the larger edifice we see and revere today were set in motion. Hawaii's ecclesiastical architectural landscape would never be the same. 

Welcome to the main sanctuary of Makiki Christian Church. The ceiling is 30 feet high from where I was standing. I was alone. Aside from the sounds of children playing in the Preschool courtyard there was not a sound. There is a different feel to settings like this when one is alone. There is a oneness with God, very subtly felt, yet nevertheless a larger, austere presence. 

Can you imagine the genius behind these architectural drawings, by someone who was self-taught? The church, the drawings, the inspiration behind embracing Edo-style Japanese architecture? For me these were tantalizing and yet pleasing surprises. 

This is a view of the chancel of the church from the nave. 

I had so many questions for Hego Fuchino. To think that this visionary would within ten years be arrested, hauled off to Wisconsin to an internment camp and then allowed to return. I wondered what emotions he felt returning after the war to his beloved Makiki Christian Church. 

Yes. I heard you.

Those ceiling panels did catch my attention. 

The is my view of the nave of the main sanctuary from the chancel. Beautiful. Austere, but not grim or sterile. I've always admired the Japanese for that culture's propensity towards reconciling the minimalism with the complex, the mysterious and wondrousness of faith journeys. 

According to one historical source, there are 164 ceiling panels. Each is hand-painted. They were all donated to the church by one Yunosuke Itow, "who studied art in England, France and Germany."

I have found nothing about his background. There was a famous Japanese actor by the same name, but I am not certain they are the same souls. 

The panels in the lobby area are, I have read, illustrative of well-known Japanese poems (haiku) and proverbs. 

One source I consulted carried this admonition: "In a melon patch, do not tie your shoelaces" (lest you be mistaken for a melon thief).

Another: "In a pear orchard, do not raise your hand to your hat," (lest you be mistaken for a pear thief)." 

Featured above and below are some of the ceiling panel styles. They are remarkable for their detailing. Their messages? Fascinating to contemplate. Looking for a catalyst for initiating conversation? Just look up. 

My time here seemed to fly by quickly. Rev. Okumura's presence seemed to be everywhere. In this sanctuary I found a new and rewarding avenue to Peace, to God, to Christ. 

In a time when people and congregations were segregated according to race and ethnicity, Rev. Okumura saw the future in this place and beyond, a place where all could gather under one roof to serve the Good Lord to the best of their ability. Today that dream has come to fruition -and we are better for it. 

I stayed for a few moments of smiles and conversation with church members and staff. I promised not to wait more eight years to return here. I recommend a visit, including Sunday workshop, for you, too. 

God our creator
Smiles jubilation always
Steadfast aloha. 

Shingon Shu Hawaii Mission: Esoteric Visions, Sacred Lines

There it was. Well, not quite as I remember it. For years I've walked by the Shingon Shu Mission in Honolulu, yet I had no idea it was there. 

The plain, unadorned back of the temple faces Keeaumoku Street, also known locally as Korea-moku Street due to the proliferate number of Korean restaurants and business establishments. The street is also home for what is reputably the world's largest Walmart store -a retail battleground we commonly refer to as the nuthouse.

I had been on a visit to Makiki Christian Church to capture images of its alluring Japanese Edo-era castle interior and exterior features. It was a nice day in Honolulu -well, isn't everyday a nice day here weather wise? I decided to trek through the nearby neighborhood streets. 

That's when -much to my delight and surprise- I encountered this:

Meet Kūkai, known posthumously as Kōbō Daishi (774-835 CE), credited as the founder of Shingon (True Word) Buddhism. 

It does not get much more dramatic than this. That was fine with me. I love a good surprise! Some of my most interesting adventures into the esoteric spaces and places of worship by humanity's array of religions and beliefs were happenstance. 

You'd be amazed to find that this oasis of mystical Buddhist piety is located in one of the busiest crossroads of the city of Honolulu. A McDonald's is located a stone's throw away -and yet the placidity and otherworldliness of Shingon Shu Mission was so evident. The juxtaposition of the temple with the world's most-recognized fast-food establishment could not be more accentuated. 

With time to spare and camera in hand I decided to vanish from the outer world's noisy clamor and explore this temple's captivating nuances. I was alone to savor the tranquil flavors of this ornate temple off Sheridan Street. 

Located in Honolulu, Hawaii USA, this temple was originally built a century ago. Nakagawa Katsutaro was a master builder of such Japanese-inspired temples as this masterpiece of his works. 

Does the name Hego Fuchino ring a bell or two? Besides known locally as Hawaii's first American of Japanese ancestry to be a licensed architect, he designed nearby Makiki Christian Church. He was brought in to renovate Shingon Shu in 1929. 

Besides serving as a temple I later learned that Shingon Shu is a congregational Buddhist school immersed in following the original tenets established over 1200 years ago by Kobo Daishi. He is credited as bringing Buddhism from China to Japan in 806 CE. 

On April 26, 2002 this temple was added to the National Register of Historic Places. 

Two massive statues stand guard just outside the main entrance to the temple. Installed in 2007 and carved of Japanese cypress, the statues represent Fujin, the Wind deity, and Raijin, the Thunder deity. Standing more than ten feet tall, each weighs 2,800 pounds. They are the largest such depictions of these Japanese deities outside of Japan. 

Why were they added to the temple? Hawaii is famous for the prevailing trade winds from the north, making the islands a very comfortable locale all year round. Both deities represent the powers and forces of Nature. 

On the right side of the temple entrance is Raijin, the God of Thunder. Impressive! He could certainly give Thor the God of Thunder popularized by Marvel Comics some real competition. 

On the left is this remarkable representation of the deity Fujin. 

Do you see what Fujin is carrying on his shoulders? That, my friends, is a large bag of wind. I wondered if the etymology, or phrase origin of the term windbag had something in common here? Have you called anyone a windbag recently? Or, been called one?

Never mind. Let's continue. I'm in enough trouble as it is. 

This exterior altar caught my eye. It is located to the left of the main entrance to the temple.

This obelisk is located near the front entrance of the temple. It is dedicated to the first Shingon mission from Japanese immigrants in the Hawaiian Islands to Japan in 1929. 

For as long as I can remember I have been enamored with the sheer elegance, refinement and sophistication of hip-and-gabled roofing style so graciously synonymous with East Asian architecture. In Japanese this is called irimoya. 

I was also quite charmed and fascinated by the intricate carvings above the main entrance. I leaned, too, that the curvature seen above symbolizes the cycles of life. 

The carved Phoenix immediately above the entrance caught my eye. In a time when we are immersed in instant-downloads to our curiosity such a masterstroke of expression reminded me that the best in life comes as a result of both effort and patience. 

The late-morning sun was beating down heavily that day. Naturally,  I sought comfort and relief inside. Again, I was alone with my camera and my thoughts. I would not be disappointed upon entering the main hall. 

The colorful, glittering altar proportionally coupled with the ceiling mandala and the Japanese-built benches around me made for a pleasant balance. Esoteric indeed. 

I will not endeavor to pretend to know all of the symbolism of the altar. It did strike me as beautiful, ornate, and contemplative. A Buddhist friend I subsequently wrote to about my experience at Shingon Shu Hawaii and my (hopefully not-too-annoying) questions would later comment:

"Yes, when I visit temples like Shingon Shu I bow, savor the atmosphere provided by the candles and the incense -and what it does is transform my state of mind. You've spoken about how calming it is to enter the sacred spaces that typify your Christian journey. It's the same here. I feel centered, blessed and renewed by my awareness in a quiet, delightful way. I'm still on the road to enlightenment, so this is a nice part of that continuous voyage." 

The 600 square foot or 56 square meter taizokai mandala suspended from the ceiling is remarkable in its vibrancy and detail. This, I would learn later, is a recent addition to the temple. 

This is not a bell but rather a Bonshō. In Japanese Buddhist temples that are struck from the outside with a mallet or a wooden beam suspended on ropes. The are traditionally made from bronze, and I believe that this is the case here. Each of these is amplified by ornate, ornamental inscriptions and designs. This one hangs from the right-side exterior of the temple. No, I did not make an attempt to ring it. 

Eleven years ago in 2004 Shingon Shu made history by separating from its denomination in Japan. The Hawaii Herald featured news of this move in this June, 2004 article. By "sailing its own canoe," the Mission is embarking on a new independent course with its precedent set centuries ago in the continued history of Buddhism. 

My own faith journey is Christian in the Congregationalist Protestant tradition, yet here in Hawaii I count many of my neighbors and friends as practicing Buddhists. We're kind to each other, our neighbors here in the Land of Aloha -and with that sentiment renewed again I wished them well. 

It was time for me to move forward, to return to the hectic pace of contemporary living, including all its headaches and responsibilities. Pretty soon the summer sun would descend on this haven of balance and beauty -and the festive season of bon dances. I just might stop by again to check up on my neighbors. Will future seasons and centuries see the emergence of a form of Aloha-based Hawaiian Buddhism spawned from its Japanese roots? History will unfold as it should. 

Aloha from Hawaii USA: Makittii, Waikiki's Japanese Buffet Infatuation

When Greg called me from Waikiki’s Grand Hotel that afternoon the timing could not have been better. I was definitely in the mood for celebration. 

At long last I was moving out of the Downtown/Chinatown area of Honolulu. What started off a year and a half before as a chapter in convenient, urbanized living near my place of work had devolved into annoyance and disappointment. The surrounding neighborhood witnessed a growing number of homeless, druggies and six-foot-tall lady boys on patrol along was is dubbed "Mortuary Row." 

The area had lost its charm. Dodging meth-heads and enduring the reek of urine in the streets has that effect. 

Greg Marconi has been a friend of mine for many years. One day he entered a radio station contest in Orange County, California, where he and his partner Denis Dechochor call home. 

The prize? A nearly-all-expense-paid* trip to Disney’s Aulani Resort in Hawaii for a week. This gem of a holiday included round-trip flights on Hawaiian Airlines. Not too shabby! (*Under American tax law contest winners are required to pay applicable taxes. It's an imperfect world). 

Guess what? Greg won. He and Denis flew over and spent a wonderful time at Aulani, which is located in Southwestern Oahu near Kapolei. After Greg and Denis departed, they decided to extend their stay a few days and come to Waikiki Beach. 

It was late Friday afternoon when I met up with them. The question came up: where should we go for dinner? As savvy, frugal travelers we reviewed the array of choices offered in Waikiki. Sure, it’s all very, very touristy and prices tend to be high. 

As a former Waikiki resident I can assure you that there are bargains to be had. You have to know where to look. It also pays to search for incentive coupons in tourist convenience haunts such as the famous ABC stores. If you want to stretch your holiday dollars it can be done. 

We walked five blocks along Kuhio Avenue until we reached our destination: Makittii Hawaii Japanese Seafood Buffet.  

Makittii is readily located at 2380 Kuhio Avenue at the corner with Kanekapolei Street, just two doors down from the (very, very pricy) Food Pantry and across the street from the Ohana East Hotel. 

I am no stranger to this place. When this was known as Perry’s Smorgy restaurant it had a reputation for providing cheap comfort food to tourists. They always looked happy, but I thought it was a gastronomical nightmare. Breakfast and lunch were cheap at $12.99. That's hard to argue against. 

Nevertheless I cheered when it was announced that Perry’s was closing in August, 2010. To this day I am unapologetic. Life and business goes on.

Makittii offers a combined all-you-can-eat dinner buffet for US$19.98 plus Hawaii General Excise Tax (GET) added with two 'Makino Ring of Fire' shows.  

When we arrived there was a long line. Denis walked in and made a reservation for the three of us. That was quick and easy -but we had roughly a 30 minute wait. What to do? 

Denis mentioned that an aunt worked at the famous Moana Surfrider Hotel two blocks away. He wanted to take a look So, off we went to explore this oldest and historic of Waikiki's numerous hotels located just two blocks away on the shore of Kuhio Beach. 

Here's Denis, me and Greg (L to R) in the lobby of the Moana Surfrider. Hotel lobbies here are open to the public. We enjoyed a trip back in time and history as this is the oldest of Hawaii's hotels. In my tourist days -before calling Hawaii home- I would stay here. A kind, friendly tourist from Japan offered to take our picture. That's the 'Aloha Spirit' for you! It tends to rub off on visitors very quickly. 

With our sojourn at the Moana Surfrider over we trekked back to Makittii. The line had disappeared and we were promptly escorted to our table. 

We were offered several tables to choose from. The show did not particularly interest Denis, Greg and I.  We chose a quieter spot with this view of the outer dining area. 

With plate in hand we began to explore Makittii's various buffet stations. 

Do you see that bottle of sriracha sauce in the foreground?  I generally love "it" hot and spicy. ;) The buffet stations were easy to approach since restaurant patrons could do so from both sides. Other patrons were considerate of each other. I never stood in line for any of the selections.  

Tempura is a Japanese favorite of mine. Is it yours? 

I always say "yes" to sushi and sashimi! 

I was pleasantly surprised by the nairagi poke. "Nairagi" is the Hawaiian term used for all marlin fish caught off shore. It's very tender, and the colors as you can see here are vibrant and appealing.

Hawaiian tuna (ahi) poke is one of my seafood favorites.  This is often served as a raw seafood salad. It's very refreshing, especially on a hot afternoon or evening. Often, vegetables such as Maui onions and tomatoes are mixed in, thus adding a delightful texture. 

I love shumai! This is often found in Chinese dim sum restaurants.  These look like 
Cantonese-style shumai dumplings.  

Very elegant -and tasty! 

Who could not gravitate to the salmon poke? My buffet stomping grounds at Makittii 
were getting better and better as I continued my seafood exploration. 

Yes, this is a bowl of wasabi! Yikes! Just a touch of this with my seafood would cause a four-alarm fire alert. 

This was my first plate. We ordered white chardonnay. It was a good combination. You might be wondering, "Is that all, Jeffrey?" Since mid-December 2013 I'd shed 30 pounds. With such an array of attractive selections I welcomed the challenge to maintain plate portion discipline. Was it easy? Hell, no! 

Here is Plate #2. By this time my resolve had weakened. Uh oh! I was sliding down the slippery-slope of the culinary side of the "The Force." 

What are some of the other available selections? How does abalone with butter and shoyu, shrimp tempura, dungeness crab, prime rib, snow crab legs, assorted fruits, and stir-fry veggies sound to you? I knew it! 

If you think that sounds appealing you can finish off your culinary joy ride with a variety of desserts, including crepes and ice cream. I had to pass on those -not because I wanted to, but I had to. 

Next time? I'll keep my options open! Let's keep that as our little secret. ;)

Yes, they all work for me, and I think they will for you, too. Just be warned! You might gain weight, but you won't lose sleep! 

The evening show was in full swing. It was very crowded in this part of the restaurant. The enthusiastic audience consisted mostly of visitors from Japan, South Korea and the mainland USA. There was lots of applause, smiles and picture-taking! 

Traditionally, I've not been a fan of buffets. My friend Bob Stowell was a restaurant manager in New York and our home State of Connecticut. Years ago over cold beers and lively, sometimes off-the-wall conversation I received a free education about the behind-the-scenes world of restaurants. He often pointed out that buffets tend to be the receiving places where restaurants would provide their leftovers to unsuspecting patrons.

Hawaii is different. I learned that after I moved here. Bob came here a few years after I relocated to Honolulu and came to the same conclusion.

Buffets in the islands of Hawaii tend to be on a higher cultural level. A local friend here explained  that in the 19th and early 20th century sugar and pineapple plantation days workers in were segregated according to race, but they shared their cuisines with each other. We're the beneficiaries of their aloha gestures -something to remember.

To this day you find a diverse selection of dishes and cuisines offered at Hawaii buffets. You can stay within your comfort zone -or get a little adventurous! Our island chefs take a great deal of pride in what they offer. Honolulu is a "big-small town" where word gets around quickly -both good and not-so-good.

Makittii is not intended to be a five-star food experience. There's plenty of other locales offering pricy experiences, and that's fine. If you are traveling with a group Makittii will suit your budget, especially if you do not want to break your bank account.

We emerged pleased that we judged this place on our own, sweeping aside the negative reviews and previous owners of years past.

Our experience at Makittii reminded us of why we love Hawaii's food culture. It does not have to be fancy. When you are looking for an affordable place in Waikiki to cater and coddle your seafood satiations this place just might be for you.

Even though some of the most congested vehicular and pedestrian traffic was yards away, we felt transported to an escape from everyday toils and cares. We enjoyed lots of laughs and characteristic good humor from one of the staff who took good care of us.

For Denis and Greg our evening of scrumptious feats marked the conclusion of an enjoyable Hawaiian-style holiday. For me our evening at Makittii signaled a cause for celebration as I was poised to depart the malaise and negativity of downtown Honolulu for greener pastures in nearby and far-flung places.

Good company, good service, congenial staff and an atmosphere of free-spirited island-style bliss was the fuel for good memories at Makittii. I'll be back.