Hawaii's Broken Ridge Temple: A Sacred Buddhist Refuge for Those Who Seek Escape

There is something surprising and bold about Honolulu's Broken Ridge Temple deep in Oahu's Palolo Valley.

As sacred spaces and architecture goes, it really throws a little water in your face when you see it for the first time. I had heard about this temple for years from friends and some of its neighbors -who were less than complimentary at the time. I'll explain in a few moments.

It had been a particularly hot, balmy day in Hawaii. I have a hard time explaining to people that September is the hottest time of the year here. Any of you who rise before dawn and settle down after dusk working on developing your business passions know what it feels like to suddenly want to stop. No amount of staring into a computer screen will change a thing. This does not happen often to me, yet when it does there's a signal inside that says that an escape from the everyday order of things is required to reboot.

When I get into these moods I am drawn to sacred spaces. Whether it is Thian Hock Keng in Singapore or the towering steeple of my ancestral Second Congregational Church in Greenwich, Connecticut, such masterpieces of physical architecture are impressive. I suppose what I like about them is than in a world worn by strife and stressful change there is a sense of stability and permanence. The intimacy that one can find in such environments can be calming to the soul.

The other dimension to all this is time. Years ago I had the pleasure of meeting renowned architect Paul Goldberger, who participated in an Architectural Lecture Series in my home town, Greenwich, Connecticut USA. In 2010, Golderberger delivered a lecture at the Chautauqua Institution in which he said:

It is difficult, perhaps impossible, to talk about sacred space without talking about time. One of the most important things about any sacred space is the way in which it transcends our normal sense of time, and by that I don’t mean that it has no connection to a time, but only that shows us with absolute clarity what the meaning of the word “timeless” is. 

I was captivated by the traditional Korean Tanchong-styled designs upon the temple walls, columns and eaves.

Today I would be in for a timeless treat. Yearning for a fresh experience,  I decided to drive to Oahu's Palolo Valley and savor the tranquility I had heard so much about at MuRyangSa Temple, also known more famously as the Broken Ridge Korean Temple. 

I had little idea what to expect. 

Originally located off King Street in Honolulu back in 1975, that temple -known as Dae Won Sa- was destroyed in fire. The temple's campus was relocated to Palolo Valley in 1986, the same year construction commenced. Believe it or not this temple was not completed until 2005. 

Why?

Local residents filed legal disputes regarding construction through the courts. The roof of the main hall was reduced. 

The Buddhists are philosophical about this, saying:

As a result, the roof was lowered to its present height. In Buddha’s teachings, he speaks of shattering our inner ridge-poles of ignorance, greed, and craving in our “house of illusion.” The shattering of ignorance by wisdom results in the demolition of illusion and the attainment of liberation–or nirvana. As with the enlightenment of the Buddha, may the shattering of our own inner-roofs remind us of the structures of ignorance that can be let go to reach the true heights of our inner liberation.

Here's the entrance to the temple. What odd about this one? Can you see? Hint: look at the roof line on the left. That's why this is called 'Broken Ridge' Temple.

You are greeted by this Buddha statue. This is where you give your donation. No one is around to enforce this, so  they rely upon the honor system. 

On either side are the Four Heavenly Kings. The figures are quite tall and immense. Each of the Kings comes with his own symbolic significance and established position in Buddhist tradition. I was told that the King of the West holds a small pagoda, the King of the East carries a sword, the King of the North holds a pearl and a dragon, with the King of the South holding a lute. 

When you walk into the gateway of Broken Ridge Temple you are greeted by four rather large Heavenly Kings. Here are two of them. 

These are the other two. They sit. They stare. They glare. All four of these deities guard the four cardinal directions and the Dharma Hall. The word 'dharma' refers to cosmic law and order in Buddhism. I found their countenances a bit amusing, though I'd imagine the intention was to be a bit intimidating.

There are an interesting contrast between Christian and Buddhist briefs on evil. Christians traditionally tend to look beyond for evil or corrupting influences. On the other hand, I learned that Buddhists look within for such evil influences as the desire to do violence, to embrace greed, lust and the kind of pride that can be self-destructive. Those who seek enlightenment as pilgrims come to this place to find the path towards overcoming those baser dimensions of nature. The role of the Heavenly Kings is to keep out evil influences. 

One of the things I was struck by was the brilliance of the colors here -not just on the Heavenly Kings, but also the entire temple complex. Tanchong-style temples like this one in Korea are emblematic of an older, golden age and tradition. Trust me when I say that the colors and textures left me with quite an impression. 

The MuRyangSa Temple web site features detailed English language explanations for various elements of the temple complex. I wish each section of the text featured a picture of what it is referring to. It's worth a read-thru at the very least. Click here! 

This is the entrance gateway containing the Four Heavenly Kings and the Buddha statue above. The perceived smallness and dimensions of the building is a bit deceiving at first. What a contrast the brilliant colors have to the greenery of the rim of Palolo Valley beyond. 

When this temple was in its construction phase someone noted that the roof appeared a bit high. It was then realized that the temple was in danger of being in violation of established city building codes. What you see here was the solution. 

The monks who live and worship here make their own kim chee. This is how! I was not offered any. :(

I really was delighted to find peace and tranquility around every bend and corner. 

Every image and every detail was hand-painted. Simply gorgeous! Can you imagine the patience this takes to achieve? It is incredible. 

Yes, even the monks here have to relax. It's a splendid view. No, I did not try out the chair. 

Close enough and yet far away. This is a view from the temple towards Waikiki Beach and the vastness of the Pacific Ocean beyond. 

Broken Ridge Temple in Palolo Valley welcomes visitors daily from 9:00 a.m. to 5:00 p.m. There is no formal admission charge, but a general donation of US$3.00 is welcomed. For seniors aged 60 years or older $2.00 is recommended. Groups of five or more must be reserved in advance. 

The address: 2420 Halelaau Place, Honolulu HI 96816.

Honolulu's city buses do not come this far into the valley, so a motor vehicle is recommended. Parking is a bit of a problem. I park the car I used off campus on the street. There is a parking garage underneath the temple, so it is probably best to call first and inquire. 

Quiet time is always observed here. No photography is permitted inside the buildings as meditation is always in progress. 

Yummy-licious by Design: Marukame Udon Restaurant in Downtown Honolulu.

Soichiro Honda (1906-1991) was a successful engineer and industrialist from Japan. He is quoted as saying, "There is a Japanese proverb that literally goes 'Raise the sail with your stronger hand,' meaning you must go after the opportunities that arise in life that you are best equipped to do." 

Well, when the owners of the Marukame Udon in Waikiki announced that it was opening a branch restaurant in downtown Honolulu I was more than ready to seize the opportunity to check out this new eatery off Fort Street Mall. 

Okay, I admit it. I love udon noodles, and I love them at Marukame Udon on Honolulu. So, there! 

Located at the corner of South Hotel Street and Fort Street Mall in downtown Honolulu, Marukame Udon provides a festive, few-frill and affordable venue for satisfying Japanese udon cuisine. Yummy-licious in my book! 

When I was an instructor at Kapiolani Community College's Honda International Center my students from Japan and South Korea raved about the restaurant off Kuhio Avenue in Waikiki. The lines to get in the door were always long. 

My students at that time said that the food served there was the closest thing to home they could find among Waikiki's numerous noodle shops. Still, I have a thing against standing in line for food. It's nothing to do with pride; it's about a hectic schedule that allows little time for such waits. 

Marukame Udon is a favorite among Honolulu's downtown business community and college students from Hawaii Pacific University's nearby campus. Don't be fooled by the line here. Things -and people- move quickly here. 

If you are a downtown Honolulu professional, college student or strolling the streets of nearby Chinatown as a tourist you will find a warm welcome and a refreshingly affordable experience at Marukame Udon's Downtown location. 

Just after you enter you get to choose the style of udon noodles you prefer from the selections here. The cooks behind the counter listen to your wishes and grant your culinary desires accordingly.  

The thick udon noodles served here are not defrosted from the freezers on tanker ships. No, your udon noodles and mine are hand-made. You don't see that too often at all in restaurants where the selections are below US$10.00. How refreshing!

You can be quite creative with a choice of side dishes to accentuate your udon and your palate. The friendly staff behind the counter are more than happy to comply with your wishes. 

These guys are well-prepared and the ingredients are fresh. This ain't no Red Lobster, McDonald's or Burger King. I never get the sense that Marukame Udon is contrived to be Americanized. This is affordable, budget-friendly Japanese cuisine at its best. Yes, even my former student from South Korea raved about Marukame Udon. 

Every time I come here I am reminded of the wondrous hawker food so delightfully enjoyed on my visits to Singapore. Everything here is fresh and healthy. You'll love the festive attitude the staff behind the counter exudes -all-smiles and lots of aloha! 

Yes, your udon cook will offer you these choices according to your wishes. Since I've become a bit spoiled by my cuisine experiences in Singapore the freshness of ingredients is a big issue with me. I was not disappointed at Marukame Udon. 

I've enjoyed both the calamari and fish cakes in tempura. Recommended and easy in the budget? Absolutely! 

I tend to stay away from fried chicken, but this side selection was milder than I expected. 

These imaginative sides include Tuna Mayo, Ginger Beef and Kombu wrapped in Japanese nori. So ono good!

That's not the annoying spam we online know all too well! Spam is huge in Hawaii. In fact, this state is the number one consumer of spam. I've tried the tofu wrap which is a mild and delicious healthy choice. 

On this visit I chose the paitan udon with tempura, fried chicken, sushi and a special green tea. That bowl is larger than it appears. All this, by the way, was less than US$10.00. That's not bad for Honolulu! 

There is a steady stream of activity behind the counter. Everything is immaculately clean. That's a big issue with me - cleanliness. The staff is friendly, festive and always helpful. 

The interior is cafeteria-style with comfortable seats and benches. It's hot and humid in Honolulu most of the time, so the air-conditioning was a welcomed relief. The loft-like atmosphere of the place felt comfortable, too. I sat that the far table near the window. There are electrical outlets for recharging your phone or laptop. There is a McDonald's across the street, and if you are able you might be able to tap into its free wifi.  

Yes, not that the obvious needs repeating. Marukame Udon is on Facebook. Click here! 

Marukame Udon's Downtown Honolulu location is open daily from 10:00 a.m. to 7:00 p.m. It is closed Sundays. Reservations are not taken, nor are they necessary. Yes, it accepts credit and debit cards. 

Parking can be a big issue -though that's true anywhere in the business district. Bike parking is available. There are convenient bus stops on South Hotel Street, as well as off South King and Bishop streets. Just expect to be dodging some of the downtown area's street characters (meth-heads and homeless). 

The restaurant does not deliver, but there is a take-out window facing out South Hotel Street. So, for those of you on-the-go or desiring to bring your udon-fix to the office this is very convenient. 

This is a great place for families with children to come, and it's popular with groups. I've seen tour groups and office staff alike here enjoying themselves and the food. Don't concern yourself with dressing up. The atmosphere here is casual. 

Trust me when I tell you that when you come to Downtown Honolulu you will enjoy your meal and the experience here -and you will be back for more! 

"This is God's Country-right here." The Round Hill Store, Greenwich, Connecticut USA

“As my grandfather used to say, this is God’s country—right here.”   

  Bill Strain

Welcome to America's oldest existing and continuously operated general store -open since 1801. Yes, that is before my time.  ;)

My late-father and Bill Strain were good friends and members of the Round Hill Volunteer Fire Department as far back as I recall. On Sundays Dad would be on duty at the firehouse, and I often went with him to wash the fire trucks, munch on TV dinners while watching ABC's Wide World of Sports or Mutual of Omaha's Wild Kingdom, being stationed at the Round Hill Country Club for the July 4 Independence Day fireworks, and go on occasional fire calls

Oh, yes, there were the intermittent cat-stuck-in-a-tree rescues, too. The firehouse were the only ones with ladders tall enough to reunite stuck feline family members with their more earthbound human members. 

Just a stone's throw away from the firehouse is one of backcountry Greenwich's quintessential small town America landmarks -the Round Hill Store. This past August I journeyed back to this special place for the first time in over fifteen years. 

Earlier that day I was with local photographer Christopher Semmes. He asked me to come along on a photo-shoot that morning at one of the Greenwich's prominent law firms. After business was completed Christopher looked at me and asked if there was any place I'd like to visit -he was more than happy to drive. 

And the first place that came to mind was -you guessed right- the Round Hill Store. 

There is something mythic about the Round Hill Store. There's no denying it. Located in the heart of the Round Hill section of my ancestral home town, Greenwich, Connecticut, this special spot has been a witness to history, and to almost every form of inclement weather known to humanity in this corner of America. Through good times and bad the Round Hill Store has seen it all. It tugs at our heartstrings and ever shall. 

This was the first sight I beheld when we walked in the door. It hasn't change in decades. Literally. You can still buy deli sandwiches, groceries -and yes, even electric model trains! 

Breakfast cereal, cake mix, tissues, ice cream bars, maple syrup, Oreo cookies, sandwiches, you name it! You can find it here at the Round Hill Store. 

No holds barred here. Yes, pay for the news before you read it. 

This cupboard functions almost like a museum. Bill Strain said it contains a sampling of products the Round Hill Store has sold over the generations. 

A very, very old cash register is on display. 

Note the sign with the store's "official" no smoking policy: Smokers all be pummeled with punishing blows all over their bodies.  They are serious -well, to a point, I'm sure! 

A boyhood's best car dealership with the latest models has been at the store for years.  :)

When I ask many friends, Round Hill natives and expats alike what they remember most about their visits to the Round Hill Store hands-down it's the penny candies. 

Tootsie rolls and fireballs, anyone?  :)

All aboard! Lionel trains have been produced since 1900. I grew up with Lionel trains, often finding them under the Christmas tree and on my birthday. 

This is an antique Lionel electric toy train that sits on the display shelf. 

Do you know any retailer who sells Lionel trains over-the-counter?

Some of the items on display include a radio, washboard and a pinball machine. 

The Round Hill Store also features an automobile service station. In such a rural part of Greenwich a place like this was necessary. The nearest service station was about three miles away -and grocery store about five miles. The area is still dominated by small farms, horse stables, and estates. Especially in the winter places like the Round Hill Store and its service station are indispensable. 

The repair shop was abuzz with activity when Bill Strain brought Christopher Semmes and I through it. 

No car or truck is too new or too classic -like this one- for tender loving care and trustworthy repairs than that found at the service station. They also service and repair farm equipment and lawn mowers. 

I do not have adequate words to describe the smiles this antique marvel brought to my heart. They would not let me have the keys, but I did try! Truth be told, I have a very special-someone in Singapore who I would have loved to take on a summer or autumn Sunday drive around my old Round Hill neighborhood in this classic beauty.  Sorry, everyone, this baby just fits two -and that seat will be taken.  :)

These two houses next door come with an interesting story courtesy of Bill Strain. He said that a man who also shared the same first and surname as my father lived in one house with his wife. Things did not work out between the two, so they divorced. It did to take long for that Mrs. Mead to move herself and her things to the house next door and the man who married her rather quickly. All continued to live next door to each other for many years. How awkward indeed!

This way to the firehouse located near the Round Hill Store on Old Mill Road. 

Bill Strain told me a heretofore unknown story about my Dad. Years ago Dad was on duty during a raging winter snowstorm. Apparently he was bored. Dad decided to hike home -and like the former U.S. Marine that he was, Dad thought the nearly three miles it would take to walk from the firehouse to our home would be quite manageable. He promised to call when he arrived at our house. When the other firefighters had not heard anything they sent out a search party, discovering his whereabouts on Burying Hill Road. Yes, they brought him home. 

This Queen Anne-styled home is nestled between the Round Hill Store and the Round Hill Firehouse. It is undergoing extensive renovation and restoration. Soon, it will be reborn as the offices of the Greenwich Land Trust, a local conservation nonprofit that safeguards the open, undeveloped lands under its care. 

For over two centuries the Round Hill Store has endured. General stores in the New England states like this one have endured by changing with the times and yet have stayed true to their histories and their traditions. I pray that it shall endure for generations to come. In a time when mom-and-pop stores across America have sailed off into the sunset this special place to our hearts has stayed true to its historical foundations. 

The Round Hill Store is independent and practical -just like the people who call this place home. 

Why does this place and others like it tug at our heartstrings? This was more than just a place to buy penny candies, sandwiches, breakfast cereal, laundry detergent and all the other necessities of life. The store was for us fortunate to grow up here and still serves as a gathering place. For generations news was shared, people scattered across the landscape could share and nurture friendships, a place to call home-away-from-home. It was the place where you could visit the store's bulletin board, scan its notices for ads for math tutoring, a lawn mower for sale, perhaps a dog or a cat gone missing. 

We remember with fondness Mrs. Strain, those 1950s eyeglasses she wore and how she would count the penny candies you purchased one-by-one, putting them in a bag and sending you on your way. 

As many who called Round Hill home and gone off to parts all over the world, I'd like to think that those penny candies mean something else today to expats everywhere.

One last look, until we meet again -and we shall. 

I've heard it said that your true friends are the ones who you can go for months without talking to and when you reconnect nothing has changed. You mention this place to people of all walks of life from Greenwich and the nostalgia the store evokes pours out from the heart like no other place does. 

If you are feeling a bit teary-eyed I have some news. You are not alone, I assure you. 

As I close I draw to your attention a superb article authored by Timothy Dumas in Greenwich Magazine. Click here for the link. It will make you smile. 

In a time of whirlwind change, globalization and uncertainties in life one could always find the doors open to a place perpetually consistent and calm like the eye of a storm. 

As we thanked our hosts for such a precious trip down "Memory Lane," I felt reconnected. I could not say good-bye, because I knew as we drove off to our next destination that I would return. I wanted so much to bring my old friends and neighbors back to the Round Hill Store. But I also have those friends and former students in Hawaii, in Asia -and a special-someone- who I wanted to share this place with. I pray that day comes. 

The Round Hill Store is like that for us -a true friend that is always there waiting and welcoming.