As sacred spaces and architecture goes, it really throws a little water in your face when you see it for the first time. I had heard about this temple for years from friends and some of its neighbors -who were less than complimentary at the time. I'll explain in a few moments.
It had been a particularly hot, balmy day in Hawaii. I have a hard time explaining to people that September is the hottest time of the year here. Any of you who rise before dawn and settle down after dusk working on developing your business passions know what it feels like to suddenly want to stop. No amount of staring into a computer screen will change a thing. This does not happen often to me, yet when it does there's a signal inside that says that an escape from the everyday order of things is required to reboot.
When I get into these moods I am drawn to sacred spaces. Whether it is Thian Hock Keng in Singapore or the towering steeple of my ancestral Second Congregational Church in Greenwich, Connecticut, such masterpieces of physical architecture are impressive. I suppose what I like about them is than in a world worn by strife and stressful change there is a sense of stability and permanence. The intimacy that one can find in such environments can be calming to the soul.
The other dimension to all this is time. Years ago I had the pleasure of meeting renowned architect Paul Goldberger, who participated in an Architectural Lecture Series in my home town, Greenwich, Connecticut USA. In 2010, Golderberger delivered a lecture at the Chautauqua Institution in which he said:
It is difficult, perhaps impossible, to talk about sacred space without talking about time. One of the most important things about any sacred space is the way in which it transcends our normal sense of time, and by that I don’t mean that it has no connection to a time, but only that shows us with absolute clarity what the meaning of the word “timeless” is.
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| I was captivated by the traditional Korean Tanchong-styled designs upon the temple walls, columns and eaves. |
Today I would be in for a timeless treat. Yearning for a fresh experience, I decided to drive to Oahu's Palolo Valley and savor the tranquility I had heard so much about at MuRyangSa Temple, also known more famously as the Broken Ridge Korean Temple.
I had little idea what to expect.
Originally located off King Street in Honolulu back in 1975, that temple -known as Dae Won Sa- was destroyed in fire. The temple's campus was relocated to Palolo Valley in 1986, the same year construction commenced. Believe it or not this temple was not completed until 2005.
Why?
Local residents filed legal disputes regarding construction through the courts. The roof of the main hall was reduced.
The Buddhists are philosophical about this, saying:
As a result, the roof was lowered to its present height. In Buddha’s teachings, he speaks of shattering our inner ridge-poles of ignorance, greed, and craving in our “house of illusion.” The shattering of ignorance by wisdom results in the demolition of illusion and the attainment of liberation–or nirvana. As with the enlightenment of the Buddha, may the shattering of our own inner-roofs remind us of the structures of ignorance that can be let go to reach the true heights of our inner liberation.
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| Here's the entrance to the temple. What odd about this one? Can you see? Hint: look at the roof line on the left. That's why this is called 'Broken Ridge' Temple. |
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| You are greeted by this Buddha statue. This is where you give your donation. No one is around to enforce this, so they rely upon the honor system. |
On either side are the Four Heavenly Kings. The figures are quite tall and immense. Each of the Kings comes with his own symbolic significance and established position in Buddhist tradition. I was told that the King of the West holds a small pagoda, the King of the East carries a sword, the King of the North holds a pearl and a dragon, with the King of the South holding a lute.
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| When you walk into the gateway of Broken Ridge Temple you are greeted by four rather large Heavenly Kings. Here are two of them. |
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| These are the other two. They sit. They stare. They glare. All four of these deities guard the four cardinal directions and the Dharma Hall. The word 'dharma' refers to cosmic law and order in Buddhism. I found their countenances a bit amusing, though I'd imagine the intention was to be a bit intimidating. |
There are an interesting contrast between Christian and Buddhist briefs on evil. Christians traditionally tend to look beyond for evil or corrupting influences. On the other hand, I learned that Buddhists look within for such evil influences as the desire to do violence, to embrace greed, lust and the kind of pride that can be self-destructive. Those who seek enlightenment as pilgrims come to this place to find the path towards overcoming those baser dimensions of nature. The role of the Heavenly Kings is to keep out evil influences.
One of the things I was struck by was the brilliance of the colors here -not just on the Heavenly Kings, but also the entire temple complex. Tanchong-style temples like this one in Korea are emblematic of an older, golden age and tradition. Trust me when I say that the colors and textures left me with quite an impression.
The MuRyangSa Temple web site features detailed English language explanations for various elements of the temple complex. I wish each section of the text featured a picture of what it is referring to. It's worth a read-thru at the very least. Click here!
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| This is the entrance gateway containing the Four Heavenly Kings and the Buddha statue above. The perceived smallness and dimensions of the building is a bit deceiving at first. What a contrast the brilliant colors have to the greenery of the rim of Palolo Valley beyond. |
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| When this temple was in its construction phase someone noted that the roof appeared a bit high. It was then realized that the temple was in danger of being in violation of established city building codes. What you see here was the solution. |
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| The monks who live and worship here make their own kim chee. This is how! I was not offered any. :( |
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| I really was delighted to find peace and tranquility around every bend and corner. |
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| Every image and every detail was hand-painted. Simply gorgeous! Can you imagine the patience this takes to achieve? It is incredible. |
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| Yes, even the monks here have to relax. It's a splendid view. No, I did not try out the chair. |
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| Close enough and yet far away. This is a view from the temple towards Waikiki Beach and the vastness of the Pacific Ocean beyond. |
Broken Ridge Temple in Palolo Valley welcomes visitors daily from 9:00 a.m. to 5:00 p.m. There is no formal admission charge, but a general donation of US$3.00 is welcomed. For seniors aged 60 years or older $2.00 is recommended. Groups of five or more must be reserved in advance.
The address: 2420 Halelaau Place, Honolulu HI 96816.
Honolulu's city buses do not come this far into the valley, so a motor vehicle is recommended. Parking is a bit of a problem. I park the car I used off campus on the street. There is a parking garage underneath the temple, so it is probably best to call first and inquire.
Quiet time is always observed here. No photography is permitted inside the buildings as meditation is always in progress.
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