American founding father, philosopher and inventor Benjamin Franklin was quoted as saying, "The doorstep to the temple of wisdom is a knowledge of our own ignorance."
True, and as a traveler I enjoy encountering the personally unknown as something new and novel. This is not something to fear.
When Darren, Siow Har and I arrived on Kusu Island, Singapore, our visit would present me with an opportunity to glimpse into the far historical and religious reaches of time and tradition in this tranquil setting. My learning adventure was underway!
I love excursions to museums, churches and temples. For many years I've been fascinated by what is commonly called "sacred architecture." I'm learning more every day about how the builders and designers of sacred spaces create venerable environments, the context behind incorporating certain architectural elements, and what they -the builders and those who commissioned those sacred spaces- desired to achieve.
Reaching back to ancient times, the story of the formation of Kusu Island has been handed down through generations of Chinese and Malays in Singapore. It is said that to save two shipwrecked Chinese and Malay sailors a mythical tortoise metamorphosed itself into an island. Kusu Island was born out of compassion and sacrifice.
After Darren, Siow Har and I disembarked from the ferry boat we encountered the Da Bo Gong Chinese Temple. Dating from 1923, this temple was constructed by a prosperous businessman. It is heavily visited during Chinese New Year.
This is not a tourist spot; it is a functioning temple. Two deities are housed here, Da Bo Gong and Guan Yin (Goddess of Mercy).
It seems to me that for sacred spaces to stand they must satisfy two propositions. On a pragmatic level such buildings perform a sacred undertaking by doing it well. Also, sacred spaces project graciousness, consideration, respect and solicitude for what they represent.
Da Bo Gong was pleasing to me. The auspiciousness of this place was comforting. I felt invited and encouraged to envisage its features and symbols. This place was a mirror reflection of the human experiences of those who built it and of those who find faith and solace here. The surrounding choppy waters and the distant skyscrapers of Singapore accentuated this fact. What a contrast between serenity and the hustle and bustle of city life!
The name 'Kusu' refers to turtles. I was told that touching the turtles would bring longevity. The turtle sanctuary is situated in a flat area of the island, not far from the temple. No, I did not touch any of the turtles.
There were large statutes of turtles we would visit later for some photographic fun.
The three is us strolled along a path that led us to a gate and a steep hill. What were we to do? Climb the steps -all 152 of them. Where would they lead?
Ladies first? Insurmountable and smiling always, Siow Har took the lead! Our journey led us to a sacred place like none other I had visited before.
On the uppermost section of this hill were three kramats. In Malay tradition a kramat is a holy shrine dedicated to Malay saints. According to a sign we found on the other side of the hillside the karmats were constructed to memorialize a devout, righteous family. Syed Abdul Rahman, his mother, Nenek Ghalib, and his sister, Puteri Fatimah lived in the 19th century.
There were many intriguing elements found in this place. Darren and Siow Har pointed out to me the Christian umbrella, the Taoist altar and Muslim shrine -all simultaneously commemorating those who rest in peace here, symbolizing Singapore's multicultural society.
What fascinated me the most were the thousands and thousands of hand-scribed messages covering the rocks, and even the stair railings. Most people would label this as graffiti, a desecration of the sacredness of this place -at least at first glance. I see it differently in this unique sacred place.
Yet as I paused to read some of the messages I realized that this sacred place fulfilled a need in these times of change in the early 21st century. I retired from my role as a deacon in a Congregational Protestant church I attended in Hawaii, USA. I reflected on the various duties and obligations I performed, including one that is most important: listener. Many people do not feel anyone is listening to them.
I've come to better acknowledge the personal struggles and hidden battles so many people deal with everyday. When the devoted ascend the same stairs we did to the kramats they pray for prosperity, for good marriages, good health and peace. Childless couples come here to pray for children, too.
At this kramat I was again reminded that despite our cultural, political, religious and geographic differences we share common struggles, hopes and dreams and aspirations that are the focus of unspoken wishes and silent prayers. It is the human condition, isn't it?
The photos below are a microscopic record to what we found scrawled on the painted rocks. Even now as I glean the words and wishes here I wonder what happened to those who took the time to inscribe their wishes and struggles here.
Did they find fulfillment? Did they find disappointment? Their stories and struggles -like their dreams- have value. I am a believer in miracles, that the answer to prayers are gifts which remind us in the existence of the unseen and that there is something beyond our mundane existence.
We are all searching, aren't we? May I be forthright? Most people really are not appreciated. We struggle, we hope, we pray and do our best to be brave in our daily lives. Our struggles are mostly known only unto ourselves. Too many feel alone and alienated.
It is no small wonder that this sacred place, situated on an island born of compassion and sacrifice, would be the focus of hope, of anticipation for better days.
The rocks were painted a blazing yellow color. Messages -thousands of them- were scrawled by previous visitors.
"My wish is for love, freedom, meaning, togetherness and constant exploration of God's glorious world. Thank you."
"I want to be a billionaire."
I have to admit I found this image to be a bit unsettling. :)
As we departed I wondered what Syed Abdul Rahman, his mother and his sister would think of all this. I wondered if they would have been moved by the words, the wishes, the emotions that were written so near where they rest in eternal peace. In hushed tones Siow Har, Darren and I bid farewell and began our descent.
The giant turtle statues were here waiting for us. As nature abhors vacuum what was there left to do? Care to guess? Cam-whoring time!
"The question isn't who's going to let me; it's who is going to stop me." Ayn Rand
I was exhausted, but in a delightful way. The turtle statue was unexpectedly comfortable.
"Try to be like the turtle -at ease in your own shell." Bill Copeland.
You never know what you can use a giant turtle statue for.
My two favorite travel-blogger/ cam-whorerers at work!
The most fascinating thing about this picture is not me. I'm not just being humble here. I noticed the water currents in the distance seemed unusual. I actually thought large sea creatures were off in the distance.
"Remember, no one can make you feel inferior without your consent." Eleanor Roosevelt
Here's Darren trying to throw me into the ocean! LOL!
It was time to bid Kusu Island a fond farewell.
I think we were on the final ferry ride back to the marina. The trip back to Singapore Island went by quickly -although I think all three of us dozed off on the return trip. If you come to Kusu Island be sure to bring water, towels, food and other necessities. We were able to purchase soft drinks in cans at the temple, but that was all.
I really enjoyed myself! We decided to partake in the rooftop playground above the Singapore Maritime Gallery. LOL!
After disembarking from the ferry boat, Darren and Siow Har noticed that the sun was setting. The infamous 'haze' from fires on Sumatra cast an eerie color to the skies above us.
There was something very eerie and surreal about this. Siow Har compared the structures in front of us to giraffes. I concurred!
Was our day over? Oh, not quite yet! We were hungry! With Darren in charge of leading us to culinary deliverance I was soon to be treated to a delightful dinner at this grand and glorious place:
Now this is just what I came to Singapore for! This is the heart and soul of the Lion City. I mean, of course, the small, independent family-owned eateries in preserved shophouses like this one.
This one, Ka Soh Restaurant, is located on Amoy Street. We were greeted with smiles and brought to a table in the rear of the restaurant. Darren served as our Master of Delicious Ceremonies. After the kind of day the three of us shared this was THE perfect feast.
Darren in charge, and doing one helluva good job!
We were all-smiles. Good food, good friends and great hosts (Photo credit: Hoh Siow Har)
As I write these concluding words a tear or two wells up in me. It's a rare occasion that I become teary-eyed, but I confess that as I enter these words I hate to let go of this story.
It is not out of sadness -although to an extent it is. I was treated to one of the most extraordinarily adventures by Darren Ng and Hoh Siow Har. I hated -really hated- to see it end. It seemed unfair. The day was filled with aloha, spontaneous fun with two extraordinary friends who truly exemplify the 'Spirit of Singapore.'
The restaurant owners and staff welcomed me as if I were a family member. As we finished our feast and we began to depart the owner asked me, "Will you come and eat with us again?" Of course I will! With a laugh I asked if I could move in! The truth? I was under the impression they would not have minded. "You are the kind of foreigner we like to have." I would hear those words again and again. Each time I felt as if I were being shown an open door, and that I was being beckoned to write a new chapter in my short life.
Siow Har and Darren walked me back to Hotel 1929 in Chinatown. Both received big Hawaii-style, aloha-inspired hugs from me. They deserved that and much more. I was filled with joy and slept quite soundly that Sunday evening. It set the tone of the remainder of my adventures in Singapore.
Throughout my time in the Lion City I would encounter many more ambassadors of Singapore's heartfelt goodness. But no day compared to this one. Thank you, Darren! Thank you, Siow Har! Yes, I even thank our zany, wayward taxi driver.
This was when I started to realize this trip would be life-changing for me. This was the moment I vowed not to wait seven years to return to enjoy the embrace of Singapore's wonderful people.
Xie-xie! Good night, and pleasant dreams!
What a great read! I see you really enjoyed our country's hospitality and people. Did you ever return to the island?
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