Part Five: Fun in the Sun Island-hopping Singapore's St. John's, Lazarus, and Kusu Islands

American founding father, philosopher and inventor Benjamin Franklin was quoted as saying, "The doorstep to the temple of wisdom is a knowledge of our own ignorance." 

True, and as a traveler I enjoy encountering the personally unknown as something new and novel. This is not something to fear. 

When Darren, Siow Har and I  arrived on Kusu Island, Singapore, our visit would present me with an opportunity to glimpse into the far historical and religious reaches of time and tradition in this tranquil setting. My learning adventure was underway!

I love excursions to museums, churches and temples. For many years I've been fascinated by what is commonly called "sacred architecture." I'm learning more every day about how the builders and designers of sacred spaces create venerable environments, the context behind incorporating certain architectural elements, and what they -the builders and those who commissioned those sacred spaces- desired to achieve.

Reaching back to ancient times, the story of the formation of Kusu Island has been handed down through generations of Chinese and Malays in Singapore. It is said that to save two shipwrecked Chinese and Malay sailors a mythical tortoise metamorphosed itself into an island. Kusu Island was born out of compassion and sacrifice.

After Darren, Siow Har and I disembarked from the ferry boat we encountered the Da Bo Gong Chinese Temple. Dating from 1923, this temple was constructed by a prosperous businessman. It is heavily visited during Chinese New Year.

This is not a tourist spot; it is a functioning temple. Two deities are housed here, Da Bo Gong and Guan Yin (Goddess of Mercy).

It seems to me that for sacred spaces to stand they must satisfy two propositions. On a pragmatic level such buildings perform a sacred undertaking by doing it well. Also, sacred spaces project graciousness, consideration, respect and solicitude for what they represent. 

Da Bo Gong was pleasing to me. The auspiciousness of this place was comforting. I felt invited and encouraged to envisage its features and symbols. This place was a mirror reflection of the human experiences of those who built it and of those who find faith and solace here. The surrounding choppy waters and the distant skyscrapers of Singapore accentuated this fact. What a contrast between serenity and the hustle and bustle of city life!  

The name 'Kusu' refers to turtles. I was told that touching the turtles would bring longevity. The turtle sanctuary is situated in a flat area of the island, not far from the temple. No, I did not touch any of the turtles. 

There were large statutes of turtles we would visit later for some photographic fun.

The three is us strolled along a path that led us to a gate and a steep hill. What were we to do? Climb the steps -all 152 of them. Where would they lead? 

Ladies first? Insurmountable and smiling always, Siow Har took the lead! Our journey led us to a sacred place like none other I had visited before. 

On the uppermost section of this hill were three kramats. In Malay tradition a kramat is a holy shrine dedicated to Malay saints. According to a sign we found on the other side of the hillside the karmats were constructed to memorialize a devout, righteous family. Syed Abdul Rahman, his mother, Nenek Ghalib, and his sister, Puteri Fatimah lived in the 19th century. 

There were many intriguing elements found in this place. Darren and Siow Har pointed out to me the Christian umbrella, the Taoist altar and Muslim shrine -all simultaneously commemorating those who rest in peace here, symbolizing Singapore's multicultural society. 

What fascinated me the most were the thousands and thousands of hand-scribed messages covering the rocks, and even the stair railings. Most people would label this as graffiti, a desecration of the sacredness of this place -at least at first glance. I see it differently in this unique sacred place. 

Yet as I paused to read some of the messages I realized that this sacred place fulfilled a need in these times of change in the early 21st century. I retired from my role as a deacon in a Congregational Protestant church I attended in Hawaii, USA. I reflected on the various duties and obligations I performed, including one that is most important: listener. Many people do not feel anyone is listening to them. 

I've come to better acknowledge the personal struggles and hidden battles so many people deal with everyday. When the devoted ascend the same stairs we did to the kramats they pray for prosperity, for good marriages, good health and peace. Childless couples come here to pray for children, too. 

At this kramat I was again reminded that despite our cultural, political, religious and geographic differences we share common struggles, hopes and dreams and aspirations that are the focus of unspoken wishes and silent prayers. It is the human condition, isn't it? 

The photos below are a microscopic record to what we found scrawled on the painted rocks. Even now as I glean the words and wishes here I wonder what happened to those who took the time to inscribe their wishes and struggles here. 

Did they find fulfillment? Did they find disappointment? Their stories and struggles -like their dreams- have value. I am a believer in miracles, that the answer to prayers are gifts which remind us in the existence of the unseen and that there is something beyond our mundane existence. 

We are all searching, aren't we? May I be forthright? Most people really are not appreciated. We struggle, we hope, we pray and do our best to be brave in our daily lives. Our struggles are mostly known only unto ourselves. Too many feel alone and alienated. 

It is no small wonder that this sacred place, situated on an island born of compassion and sacrifice, would be the focus of hope, of anticipation for better days. 

The rocks were painted a blazing yellow color. Messages -thousands of them- were scrawled by previous visitors. 

"My wish is for love, freedom, meaning, togetherness and constant exploration of God's glorious world. Thank you." 

"I want to be a billionaire." 

I have to admit I found this image to be a bit unsettling. :)

So, to those of you who ascended those 152 steps and scrawled your wishes here you are in my prayers. My only gift I can offer you are my prayers that you, like so many, will find sunshine in the path before you, that on those days when it rains that you will be sheltered and guided forward. It hardly matters to be what your faith journey entails. We are in all this together. 

As we departed I wondered what Syed Abdul Rahman, his mother and his sister would think of all this. I wondered if they would have been moved by the words, the wishes, the emotions that were written so near where they rest in eternal peace. In hushed tones Siow Har, Darren and I bid farewell and began our descent. 

The giant turtle statues were here waiting for us. As nature abhors vacuum what was there left to do? Care to guess? Cam-whoring time! 

"The question isn't who's going to let me; it's who is going to stop me." Ayn Rand

I was exhausted, but in a delightful way. The turtle statue was unexpectedly comfortable. 

"Try to be like the turtle -at ease in your own shell." Bill Copeland. 

You never know what you can use a giant turtle statue for. 

My two favorite travel-blogger/ cam-whorerers at work!

The most fascinating thing about this picture is not me. I'm not just being humble here. I noticed the water currents in the distance seemed unusual. I actually thought large sea creatures were off in the distance. 

"Remember, no one can make you feel inferior without your consent." Eleanor Roosevelt

Here's Darren trying to throw me into the ocean! LOL! 

It was time to bid Kusu Island a fond farewell. 

I think we were on the final ferry ride back to the marina. The trip back to Singapore Island went by quickly -although I think all three of us dozed off on the return trip. If you come to Kusu Island be sure to bring water, towels, food and other necessities. We were able to purchase soft drinks in cans at the temple, but that was all. 

I really enjoyed myself! We decided to partake in the rooftop playground above the Singapore Maritime Gallery. LOL! 

After disembarking from the ferry boat, Darren and Siow Har noticed that the sun was setting. The infamous 'haze' from fires on Sumatra cast an eerie color to the skies above us. 

There was something very eerie and surreal about this. Siow Har compared the structures in front of us to giraffes. I concurred! 

Was our day over? Oh, not quite yet! We were hungry! With Darren in charge of leading us to culinary deliverance I was soon to be treated to a delightful dinner at this grand and glorious place:

Now this is just what I came to Singapore for! This is the heart and soul of the Lion City. I mean, of course, the small, independent family-owned eateries in preserved shophouses like this one. 

This one, Ka Soh Restaurant, is located on Amoy Street. We were greeted with smiles and brought to a table in the rear of the restaurant. Darren served as our Master of Delicious Ceremonies. After the kind of day the three of us shared this was THE perfect feast. 

Darren in charge, and doing one helluva good job! 

We were all-smiles. Good food, good friends and great hosts (Photo credit: Hoh Siow Har)

As I write these concluding words a tear or two wells up in me. It's a rare occasion that I become teary-eyed, but I confess that as I enter these words I hate to let go of this story. 

It is not out of sadness -although to an extent it is. I was treated to one of the most extraordinarily adventures by Darren Ng and Hoh Siow Har. I hated -really hated- to see it end. It seemed unfair. The day was filled with aloha, spontaneous fun with two extraordinary friends who truly exemplify the 'Spirit of Singapore.' 

The restaurant owners and staff welcomed me as if I were a family member. As we finished our feast and we began to depart the owner asked me, "Will you come and eat with us again?" Of course I will!  With a laugh I asked if I could move in! The truth? I was under the impression they would not have minded. "You are the kind of foreigner we like to have." I would hear those words again and again. Each time I felt as if I were being shown an open door, and that I was being beckoned to write a new chapter in my short life.

Siow Har and Darren walked me back to Hotel 1929 in Chinatown. Both received big Hawaii-style, aloha-inspired hugs from me. They deserved that and much more. I was filled with joy and slept quite soundly that Sunday evening. It set the tone of the remainder of my adventures in Singapore. 

Throughout my time in the Lion City I would encounter many more ambassadors of Singapore's heartfelt goodness. But no day compared to this one. Thank you, Darren! Thank you, Siow Har! Yes, I even thank our zany, wayward taxi driver.

This was when I started to realize this trip would be life-changing for me. This was the moment I vowed not to wait seven years to return to enjoy the embrace of Singapore's wonderful people. 

Xie-xie! Good night, and pleasant dreams! 

Part Four: Fun in the Sun Island-hopping Singapore's St. John's, Lazarus, and Kusu Islands

"There are two means of refuge from the miseries of life: music and cats." Albert Schweitzer. This is one of Lazarus Island's Welcome Wagon Kitties. 

Lazarus Island lay before Darren Ng, Hoh Siow Har and I as we bid adieu to our tractor (see Part Three of our magical mystery island tour). The process of crossing from one island to the other was a relatively simple one, thanks in large part to a manmade land bridge. 

As we crossed  the land bridge I noticed people engaged in fishing, all waving hello to us as we passed by. It felt so calm. Such lovely people!

My first impression of Lazarus Island was that it was much more forested than St. John's. The island felt placid and peaceful. The waters were relatively clear, too. 

We encountered a small beach which, while certainly scenic, was something of a disappointment. The sand for some reason seemed to be packed down quite heavily. That made for discomfort if we were to sit there for any length of time. Trust me; I live in Hawaii, USA, and we know good beaches when we see them. 

We would be pleasantly surprised by what we would discover on the other side of this ridge of trees - welcomed reprieve from the heat and humidity.

But first there was one matter to be taken care of. It was lunch time. 

As we inspected and searched the area for a picnic site this black cat appeared. The area was crowded with construction equipment, too. This cat was quite persistent. His eyes were piercing!

The black cat pictured above acted as an observant picnic manager. He was soon joined by a growing army of Hello Kitties who emerged from the forest around us. 

One of the things I look for in a public eating experience is how well the locals are welcoming. There was no doubt in our minds that the kitty army on patrol was particularly delighted to see us. They were attentive and more than happy to display their friendliness. 

Welcome to the Lazarus Island Concrete Slab-by-the-Sea Picnic Spot! Golfer Jack Nicklaus is quoted as saying, "People don't want to go to the dump and have a picnic, they want to go out to a beautiful place and enjoy their day. And so I think our job is to try and take the environment, take what the Good Lord has given us, and expand upon it or enhance it, without destroying it." 

The Good Lord works in mysterious ways -and He provided! Who were we to refuse? 

Siow Har took this photo of Darren and I enjoying the rigid, unyielding ambiance the concrete ground below our butts afforded us. The mats we parked under our behinds lent a special feeling that was very welcoming and responsive -in its own uniquely rigid, stony way. 

Not only was this my first time visiting Lazarus Island, it was also the first time I ever experienced a picnic lunch at a construction site in all of Asia! Shiok, man! 

As there were no staff to wait on us hand-and-foot we were left to fend for ourselves. Lazarus Island is definitely BYOL (Bring Your Own Lunch). 

Thanks to Siow Har, who brought homemade sandwiches, apples and other edible goodies for us, we enjoyed an atmosphere of good fun, frivolity and convivial conversation. 

Xie-xie, Siow Har, for the sandwiches and other healthy foods! It was perfect for the hot weather we were all experiencing. 

Darren's smartphone provided a conglomeration of musical selections. By the way, he's a big Debbie Gibson fan! The neighborhood kitties serenaded us with a chorus of meows unmatched anywhere! 

The Lazarus Island Concrete Slab-by-the-Sea Picnic Spot provides self-service diners with an uncommon, unexampled and other-islandly setting that is surely second-to-none. 

No traffic! No congestion! No crowds! No sand between our toes -or other awkward, embarrassing spots! I was in heaven. 

The preeminent element of this dining setting was how calming the nearby placid waters and the tranquility the forest that framed the backdrop combined to provide us with a nature-inspired decor that is most unusual in Singapore. We passed up the nearby beach; we're snobs, what can I say? No regrets though. 

This was a truly memorable visit. I'd recommend this charming neck of the woods for romantic getaways, dreamy family gatherings, feral cat enthusiasts, picturesque business retreats, heck, go solo if you are feeling adventuresome! 

Finally, the Lazarus Island Concrete Slab-by-the-Sea Picnic Spot is an undiscovered gem. It's open and secured at the same time. Try it out soon! I heard that the Sentosa Island developers will be making some changes to this island soon. I suspect that sooner or later there will be a waiting list. Hurry, hurry!

The three of us were genuinely moved by Mr. Kitty, the one with the piercing eyes who was the first to extend greetings to us. Darren, ever a friend to animals everywhere, shared a portion of his edible bounty. (This image would haunt me exactly one week later after news of a failed cat rescue on Bitam Island and a resulting fractured shoulder reached me). 

We bid our new-found cat compatriots fond salutations and departed for more cam-whoring fun and island exploration. 

As we rounded a bend in the road before us it did not take long for Siow Har and Darren to discover another setting for photo fun! 

Henry Miller is quoted as saying, "The moment one gives close attention to any thing, even a blade of grass, it becomes a mysterious, awesome, indescribably magnificent world in itself."  

Well, we found more dry, dead blades of grass than anyone would know what to do with. There goes to Good Lord again! What a provider! Once again an out-of-the-box setting for more posing and cam-whoring presented an opportunity we could not pass up. 

"When in doubt, wear red." Bill Blass

"The most important thing to remember is that you can wear all the greatest clothes and all the greatest shoes, but you’ve got to have a good spirit on the inside. That’s what’s really going to make you look like you’re ready to rock the world." Alicia Keys

"Look gorgeous whenever, wherever." Marie Claire. And have fun, of course. 

I was asked to pose as a "tough guy." Here's my attempt. By the way, I would learn later on that I was standing on a paved roadway -and that the surrounding grasslands was inhabited by snakes. Uh oh! 

"I live for myself and answer to nobody." Steve McQueen

"A girl should be two things: classy and fabulous." I'd like to think Coco Chanel would have been pleased. 

I admit that I was a bit astounded at how tall the grass was. I am five feet, ten inches tall. This was another attempt as posing as a tough guy. I need practice. 

You'll notice that my complexion was becoming abundantly redder. The area we were taking photos of each other was dry and hot. It was time to go. 

A welcomed reprieve would lay just around the corner -much to our delight and relief! 

Ready?

I am not sure who was more elated by this, me or Darren and Siow Har. This reminded me of any off-the-beaten-path beach on the island of Oahu in Hawaii. But to my two travel-blogger tractor trash friends this was quite a delightful discovery. For those of you who call Singapore home a scene like this, to state it mildly, is quite out of character for the Lion City. 

Darren wasted no time running over to the beach and the gentle waves that washed ashore. Several private boats were moored in the distance. Notice how empty the beach is! Siow Har and Darren would remark that Singaporeans were no where to be seen -which is unfortunate. 

I think Darren's face expresses our exhilarated sentiments best. All three of us immediately threw ourselves into the waves! 

But first...

"If you obey all the rules you miss all the fun." Katharine Hepburn

"I'm king of the beach!" 

I admit that when I saw this picture I was a bit mortified. Since mid-December I've been shedding excess pounds. By the time I departed Singapore I had lost more weight, much to my delight -a process that still continues! The key to my increase in health and decrease in weight is tied to giving up processed foods as much as possible. 

The ocean had an enthralling, refreshing effect on us. We splashed around, smiled as the soothing waters cooled us from the oppressive heat during this unusual time of drought. We felt free, jubilant, cheerful and gratified. We were on a  nearly-empty beach in a city-state more known for its busy port and its towering skyscrapers. It was all quite ironic -and we savored ever moment of it we could. 

Whatever cares and worries we carried in the recesses of our emotions seemed light-years away. All this combined with the company of good friends made it all worthwhile. It started to dawn on me that this day would be one that I'd hope I'd never forget. 

On our way back we noticed that low tide exposed these mangrove roots, so some last-minute photo-fun was in order. 

 

We packed up our belongings and headed back to the pier on St. John's Island. Darren was particularly happy to the point he played music from his smartphone and even treated Siow Har and I to a dance! 

Well, I happened to have an American dollar bill in my wallet, so I tried to tip Darren! If I came to you and tried to insert a dollar bill on your waist-band would you refuse? Ha ha ha ha! What a good sport this guy is! I got my dollar back, we all shared a good laugh and continued on our journey. 

Our final island destination, Kusu Island, as next on our adventure. While we enjoyed lots of fun and frivolity on our first two islands, Kusu would take us back in time and in touch with ancient traditions in a revered, sacred island setting. Stay tuned for the next chapter in our island-hopping adventure!

Part Five, here we come!