Landmarks, Finding Directions and the Pinnacle at Duxton

Yesterday I posted my comments about Singapore Chinatown's boutique accommodation Hotel 1929. In this photo I mentioned that the area was lined with historic shophouses.

It does not take a rocket scientist to note that the large -very large- apartment building dominating the skyline is not a shophouse. If you noticed this right away you have my hearty congratulations! I am proud of you!

That gigantic behemoth apartment building is known at the Pinnacle@Duxton. I was informed that what you are seeing -all fifty floors with sky gardens- is the largest public housing complex in the world. 

The Pinnacle looks rather out of place in this photo. True. But believe it or not it served a very useful purpose. Let me explain.

Overall, Singapore is quite flat. I came from Hawaii, USA, specifically the Island of Oahu and the city of Honolulu. On Oahu in particular residents do not tell directions by North, South, East or West as done in most places. Blessed with the Koolau mountains and the Waianae mountains, and surrounded by the Pacific Ocean, residents tell directions by:

-Mauka: towards the mountains.

-Makai: towards the sea.

-Ewa: West bound.

-Diamond Head: West bound. If you are east of Diamond Head Crater then you use Koko Head Crater, which is near the easternmost tip of Oahu.

For years this is how I have followed directions. Singapore does not have mountain ranges. Large or distinctive buildings such as this one to gain my bearings. Even with a map in hand it was easy to get confused. Then again I was fairly new to town. 

One more thing. The term 'public housing' in the USA refers to government-owned apartment buildings for the poor. There is a certain income threshold for qualification.

This is not the case in Singapore. Most of the residential buildings are developed by the Housing and Development Board (HDB). Apartments are suited for individuals and families of all income levels. The Pinnacle is unique in that it comprised seven interconnected fifty-story towers totaling 1,848 apartment units. They can be purchased. The seven towers that comprise the Pinnacle@Duxton are the world's tallest public housing buildings. They also include two of the largest sky gardens, which are located on the 26th and 50th stories.

Only in Chinatown: Hotel 1929, Singapore

“There is nothing which has yet been contrived by man, by which so much happiness is produced as by a good tavern.” Samuel Johnson

Luck was on my side. My flight from Tokyo landed at world-famous Changi Airport in Singapore. The time was 12:20 a.m., Friday, March 7. I had been traveling for over eighteen hours from Honolulu. The first thing on my mind was getting a problem-free taxi ride to my first accommodation, Hotel 1929 in Chinatown. 

There are people who rate Singaporean taxi drivers as among the worst in the world. That surprised me since the city-state is about the size of the Hawaiian island of Molokai. How could you get lost? What could go wrong? (Stay tuned for my comments in an upcoming post about my island-hopping excursion with Darren Ng and Hoh Siow Har on Sunday. Oy vey!)

In my case nothing went wrong when I jumped into the taxi waiting for me. When I told my driver that Hotel 1929 was my destination he grinned and said, “No problem, sir.” I was elated. 

Hotel 1929 is nestled among the shophouses of Singapore's Chinatown.

This was my room. Yes, a bit small. It was functional and comfortable. The air conditioning brought welcomed relief from the smell of Sumatran haze and tropical temperatures. 

This was the glassed-encased bath area. The sink was on the outside facing the bed. 

I chose Hotel 1929 from various selections on hotels.com. I wanted to stay in a shophouse converted into a boutique hotel. There are many of them in Singapore’s Chinatown. I wanted to show my support for the preservation of these historic buildings. Keong Saik Road is lined with such historic shophouses, many of which have been reused as boutique hotels, restaurants, and more. 

My driver was quite lively and gregarious. He even handed me bottled water for which I was grateful. We cruised from the airport through nearly deserted streets as we discussed everything from the pungent smell of ‘haze’ in the air, the current drought (the worst in 154 years), landmark buildings and more as if we were old friends. This was not bad at all. 

We quickly arrived at the hotel. I bid farewell to my driver as he handed me my luggage. Two of the hotel staff were on hand. They were waiting and expecting my arrival. I was warmly greeted and called by name. Checking me in was done most efficiently. I was in my second-floor rear section room in no time. 

This is a delightful, small boutique hotel. My room was modest and practical. After all, I was not planning on staying in the room much of the time. 

I’d describe the decor as modernistic and trendy, but not overwhelming or tacky. I was amused by the glass-walled shower and toilet section. That, too, was functional and it worked fine with me. 

When I travel an important item is WiFi and it worked very well here. I was delighted to signal my Facebook friends that I had arrived safe and sound. 

This outdoor living room was a nice treat. Located outside my window it is a nice setting. The only drawback was that the air conditioning system was nearby, so it was a bit noisy. 

My four-night stay came with an all-you-can-eat breakfast. It was what we would called ‘continental’ with a variety of Western and Asian selections. 

The surrounding neighborhood features a lively variety of restaurants and bars. The famous Maxwell Food Centre and Chinatown Food Street were a five-minute walk away, for example. 

Getting reacquainted with the Lion City meant asking the staff for directions, questions and so forth. At all times when I needed everything from a map to what restaurants were open -if anything- at 5:30 a.m., the staff were smiling and ever-helpful. 

Location! Location Location! This was one of the best things about staying at Hotel 1929. Both the Chinatown MRT and Outram Park MRT (subway) stations were a few blocks away. 

I loved the row upon row of shophouses that lined the narrow streets of Chinatown. I noted a welcoming coherent, harmonious and logical flow to the streetscapes, something I find comforting in historic settings. 

Inside and out, the serenity of the façades of the shophouses coupled with art and personalized, warm service made my stay at Hotel 1929 a pleasant one. 

Yes, I was a happy-camper at Hotel 1929. 

On that first morning I probably slept four or five hours. Feeling a bit excited about my arrival, I ran out before breakfast to survey my surroundings. I used New Bridge Road as the path for my morning explorations, finally ending up near Riverwalk along the Singapore River. 

Here are my first photos:

None of the restaurants or hawker food stands were open yet. 

The Year of the Horse was prominently on display from the recent Chinese New Year celebrations. 

Uh oh! It looks like these Chinese New Year horses took a tumble! 

This is a fine example of the typical shophouse architecture seen throughout Singapore's Chinatown and elsewhere. 

This is one way to dry your laundry. The air here is so warm overnight and hit during the day that it makes sense. 

Worshippers were here bright and early. 

This is the entrance to Maxwell Food Centre

I took this photo at about 5:30 a.m., more or less. This is the Singapore River with Parliament House in the foreground and the stunning Marina Sands Hotel in the distance. This was the first time I had seen the hotel. I thought it was out-of-this-world. 

Still a Wonder: Thian Hock Keng in Singapore

I got lost. My flight had landed at Changi Airport only hours before. 

Did the fact that I lost my bearings particularly matter? In retrospect? Not really. After a seven-year absence from Singapore I correctly assumed that my initial explorations of the Lion City would be ill-predicted. By that I mean that I'd spend the first day or two wandering around and simply making up my journey along the way. 

The smell of "haze" from burning fires in Sumatra filled the air. But as I rounded a street corner lined with traditional shophouses the distinctive, pungent aroma of burning joss sticks filled the air -and then there it was: 158 Telok Ayer Street. 

Dignified. Splendid, yet understated. Exquisite in its exactitude. A meticulous connection to Singapore's engaging past like no other. 

The initial sight of Thian Hock Keng delighted me. At last! I would be renewing an acquaintanceship started nearly ten year before.  

As an historian I've toured many historic churches, synagogues and temples. My family even built a few, such as the Second Congregational Church in my ancestral home in Greenwich, Connecticut USA. The stories told and untold make for compelling analysis and exploration. Thian Hock Keng was clearly outside my traditional comfort -much to my satisfaction. 

In a city-state that bustles with action day and night this beautiful oasis of calm and serenity has been here since 1839. Once upon a time the nearby area was the waterfront. It was at this historic spot where early seamen and migrants from China's Fujian province would pay their respects and express their gratitude for a safe journey and arrival. 

I thought about my own ancestors in Connecticut and what their lives were like. Living in homes that still grace our roadways on land they farmed in relative safety, I juxtaposed them with the precarious, formidable journey faced by those early migrants from China to the shores of an island colony founded by Sir Stamford Raffles just twenty years before. It was a time when whatever semblance of law and order existed on the seas still posed severe challenges for those who risked it all for a better life in a young, struggling colony. I felt humbled. 

Not a single nail holds this temple together. Surrounded by modern skyscrapers and now far from the shore, the mysteries of this place were forcibly compelling to me, but in an inspiriting,

serene way. 

This Chinese guardian lion seemed to smile. These are found in pairs in front of temples. They are said to have robust, legendary powers -with safeguarding benefits! 

I consider this temple to be an architectural masterpiece. I loved the ornateness of the roof details, the Chinese scripts on the red columns, the red lanterns, the serenity and symmetry of the courtyards, such as the one pictured above. 

The most important element of this temple is that it is still alive with worshippers. Indeed, this is a functioning temple and not a tourist haven. Photography is not permitted in the areas where worshippers pay their respects, just as generations have done so here for 175 years. 

As I wandered among the courtyards, doorways and soaked in the cornucopia of Chinese traditions around me I found myself at time feeling emotional. At the time I was surprised and unsure why. 

But I came to understand that I was witnessing an intersection of my own, albeit indirect, reunion with Chinese civilization through my father. My wanderings triggered thoughts and buried feelings of my late-father, who passed on four years ago. 

Dad had never visited Singapore, but he was stationed in China after World War II. I could picture Dad in his youthful early-20s meandering among similar temples in Tianjin and Beijing. Years ago he told me stories of his wonder and astonishment at the ancientness of those temples, of an encounter with a civilization far older than our own. I felt teary-eyed at times in a way I have a hard time articulating in words. 

I also thought about my friends in Singapore and their ancestors who made the difficult, even treacherous journey to come here. I felt a commonality with them, with their progenitors and mine so long ago. The experience of reuniting with Thian Hock Keng reminded me that despite cultural, language and other characteristics we, together, are part of a chain of history that started so long ago. And, together, we had history to celebrate, to connect with through smiles, curiosity, and the exquisite pain of tears of separation and joy that proved to be an unexpected gift. 

It was all so poetic. As I departed the front gate and turned to look one more time I felt grateful. You encounter all kinds when you travel the world. One of the guides nodded and smiled as I re-entered the modernity of Singapore. He bade me a safe journey. That was nice. 

Show 'n' Tell: Singapore's Duxton Hotel, "Where Chic Ambiance and History Come Together"

I admit that I have a love affair with Singapore's historic shophouses. Throughout my teenage years in Connecticut and my adult years I've been an advocate of preserving historic streetscapes, neighborhoods and individual distinctive buildings. 

So, you can image my delight when I found the Duxton Hotel in Singapore's Chinatown via Hotels.com. I was looking for a special place that would take me back to an earlier time before big-box chain hotels dominated the accommodation scene. 

I wandered around the interior of the Duxton and the surrounding neighborhood, thinking to myself what an engaging setting this would have been for an Agatha Christie 'whodunit' mystery crime novel. The neighorhood's nooks and crannies lend themselves to such an enriching story idea. 

After my two night stay I was asked by Hotels.com to furnish a review. I was more than happy to do so!

(Here's a touch of whimsy in the front lobby)

"I stayed at the Duxton in Singapore's Chinatown for two days before flying back to the USA. I wanted an experience that took me back to a bygone era. This gem of a hotel and its staff delivered a classical ambiance that had a whimsical tinge of chic about it."

"Everyone from the front desk personnel to the maids were gracious and kind. Rooms are classically immaculate. I felt comfortable and taken back to an earlier, genteel time."

"I come from a family that has owned and operated bed-and-breakfast inns in North America. For over ten years I've called Hawaii my home, a place where hospitality is second-to-none. Quite frankly, I felt at home here. I hated to leave. Will I return? Most definitely!"

I'd add that the location of the Duxton Hotel makes it ideal for walking to nearby trendy pubs and restaurants. Maxwell Food Centre was just a block or two away, as was Chinatown Food Street. 

My room faced the back to the hotel, so I had little if any exposure to street noise. The air conditioning in my room was excellent. The elevator is quite small, but then again if fit in with the overall atmosphere and historical ambiance that characterizes the Duxton Hotel. 

The queen-sized bed enveloped me in perfect comfort; I slept so well! 

One of the biggest and most important elements of a boutique hotel is the staff. They were responsive, professional and kind. The housekeepers always smiled and sent a "Good morning, Sir!" greeting my way. 

As it was in the beginning.

On my final day in Singapore I awakened to rain. That may not seem like much to you, but it was the tail end of the longest dry spell in the Lion City in the past 154 years. 

The drought conditions were coupled with the daily pungent smell of "haze" from burning brush in Sumatra. The rains were welcomed because it also filtered the air. 

The haze was gone. That was nice. 

The decision to turn travel-blogger also happened on the same day. This trip had been for me one of those life-changing ones. I can honestly say that up to that day I had not experienced a single bad moment. 

On that Sunday afternoon that was about to change.

For years I had been friends with Darren Ng, one of Singapore's most acclaimed travel bloggers with his travel blog Explore Life Lah!  Darren and I along with Hoh Siow Har, another travel blogger whose blog Xia's Journey you can visit here, were scheduled to gather one last time for a farewell dinner. 

 

That changed when I received news that Darren had been in an accident on Batam Island, falling into a drainage ditch and fracturing his shoulder. His mission? Rescuing a kitten. What a guy! Chivalry for helpless kittens was alive and well on Batam that day. 

He and Siow Har left Batam for Singapore a day earlier. He was in a great deal of pain. Our gathering would have to wait until my return to Singapore.

I spent the afternoon taking one last look at my favorite haunts in Chinatown. I was worried about Darren and Siow Har, and admittedly I was feeling blue. I ended up at Chinatown Food Street where many had gathered to eat and celebrate the parting of the rains. The air was clear and clean.

The decision to blog about my travels hit me like a freight train at dinner. My two Singaporean friends helped plant a seed for which I am quite grateful. Here's my final video blog:

Travel Rocks My World celebrates experiences and destinations where life is lived and history is often made in out-of-the-way places and circumstances. 

I am an historian, so you will be bearing witness to important sites and personalities that, at least to me anyway, are fascinating. 

Together, we will also bear witness to the clash between past, present and future. History has a way of unfolding in ways that make us smile -and sometimes throws water in our faces. 

Life and locations are often filled with realities that transcends cultures and national differences. In other words, it is a smaller yet increasingly interconnected world. 

But, our explorations and the people who fill them are often surprise-filled encounters. I celebrate the joys of the unexpected -and that is just part of the fun!